Ravenfeast

Ravenfeast Rulebook

Table of Contents

What You Need to Play

MINIATURES: What is historical miniature wargaming without the miniatures? Ravenfeast is a game about Vikings, and each player will need about 12-20 figures to get started. These figures can be based on round or square bases and can be any scale you desire. In the last chapter of this book, "Expanding Your Horizons," we offer a list of links and resources, including some excellent manufacturers.

Suggested models to form the core of your Viking warband:

x1 Viking leader, or Jarl
x2-4 Huskarls, or heavily-armed lieutenants
x6-10 Hirdmen or Bondi with spears and shields
x2-4 Bondi archers with bows
x1 Berserker with whatever crazy weapon he wants!

GAMING ACCESSORIES: To play Ravenfeast, you need a handful of basic gaming accessories. These common items are needed to play most any miniature wargame. In addition to the standard items below, the advanced rules for Ravenfeast may require a handful of plastic gold or silver coins/counters, and a set of the Rune Cards that you can print and cut out for free on our website.

Required game components:

x1 Tape measure or ruler (in inches)
x10 Six sided dice (referred to as D6)
x20 Colored markers or counters (red, yellow, black)

TERRAIN: Setting up a tabletop battlefield can be as minimalist or as elaborate as you like. You can expand your terrain collection over time, but for your very first game we suggest a handful of essentials. Under the "Terrain" chapter of this book we'll show you how to quickly assemble the basics on a limited budget.

Essential tabletop terrain:

x1 4'x4' or 4'x6' plush felt cloth mat
x1 Bag of lichen for bushes and scrub
x1 Handful of stones, pebbles, and twigs
x1 Longhouse or similar Dark Age building
x20 Model trees

Historical Setting

In the summer of 793, the first recorded Scandinavian raiders pillaged an abbey in northeastern England, marking the start of a three-hundred year span of history known today as the "Viking Age." The term "Viking" never appears in surviving texts from the time. Citizens of the fractured, vulnerable kingdoms of the British Isles called the Vikings "wolves among sheep," or simply "Danes."

The seafaring Danes exploring and raiding the British Isles hailed from the numerous, isolated kingdoms of Scandinavia and generally spoke a shared Germanic language, Old Norse. Their far-flung exploration and raiding parties reached from the Black Sea all the way across the Atlantic Ocean. Their battles to wrest control of the Saxon kingdoms in England are the stuff of legend. Alfred the Great, Guthrum, Harald Hardrada, Ragnar Lothbrok, and Harold Godwinson all rank among the famous captains of the era.

Throughout Ravenfeast, we use the more modern term, "Viking." The weapons and tactics of the period are reflected in the rules, and players will need to sense the opportune moment to form up their shield walls.

The chaotic politics of the Viking Age saw Vikings fighting each other nearly as often as they clashed with the Saxons or other kingdoms of the mainland continent, so you will have plenty of flexibility in using your miniatures to fight any opponent!

Historical Arms & Armor: Warriors in this era commonly equipped themselves with round shields, spears, axes, and padded tunics. For those who could afford such luxuries, chainmail and swords were prized. Mounted soldiers were a rare sight on the battlefield, especially among the Danes.

The predominant tactical formation of the time was the shield wall, with men standing shoulder-to-shoulder and overlapping their shields to form an unbroken line. Because the shield wall relied on even ground, armies of this era constantly sought to maneuver their opponents into a disadvantage with rough, broken ground.

Learning to Play

Ravenfeast is a free set of skirmish rules for wargaming in the Viking Age. The rules in this book are less than six pages long, so you'll be raiding and pillaging the English coastline in no time!

For those who prefer visual learning, we also offer a complete video tutorial on Little Wars TV. In just ten minutes, we'll teach you how to play a turn of the game. The last page of this book includes a one-page "quick reference sheet" with handy reminders for all the most important rules.

After mastering the basic game, we encourage you to explore a few of the optional advanced rules!

Standard Game Rules

Ravenfeast can be played with two or more players on any size table, with any scale models. You will simply need a couple of tape measures, a handful of six-sided dice (D6), at least a dozen figures per player, three colors of tokens, some terrain for your table, and a horn of mead (over 21 only please!).

BASING: We recommend all Viking figures be mounted on a 1" or 25mm square base. Round bases may be used if you prefer.

GAME LENGTH: You can fight until one side is eliminated, design your own scenario, or pick from one of the scenarios offered at the end of the rules. A typical skirmish can be resolved in 1 hour of play time.

TURN SEQUENCE: A turn consists of six phases. During each phase, every player completes their actions in Initiative order. Each phase must be completed before starting the next. During the Missile and Melee phases, mark any casualties as they occur but do not remove them yet, as they may still act until the End of Turn phase.

Initiative
Rally
Movement
Missile
Melee
End of Turn

Phase #1: Initiative

Each player rolls a D6 and subtracts the current number of Leaders and Heroes in their force. Re-roll any ties between players.

The player with the lowest total may go first or nominate another player to go first. Play then proceeds clockwise around the table for all phases.

Phase #2: Rally

A Viking who previously failed a morale roll and is marked with a Coward Token must try to rally. Roll a D6. If the score is equal to that Viking's Morale rating or less, the test passes. If passed, that Viking may immediately act as normal. If failed, that Viking is removed from the game and counted as killed.

Phase #3: Movement

Starting with the player who won the Initiative, each player moves all of their Vikings. A Viking may move up to their Move rating in inches and may move through friendly Vikings but not enemies. A Viking may not end his movement with its base overlapping any other. A Viking cannot move between enemy figures if there is less than its base width between them. Moving a Viking into base-to-base contact with an enemy locks both figures into melee and they each forfeit any remaining movement for that turn.

TERRAIN: "Rough" terrain costs double the movement distance to move through it. Obstacles, such as stone walls or passing through a building doorway, cost 2" of movement. Some terrain may be defined as impassible, like cliffs or high walls. Players should mutually agree to terrain types that affect movement before starting.

Examples of Rough Ground: Dense woods, Rocky ground, Creeks, Steep hills
Examples of Obstacles: Low walls, Fences, Thick hedgerows, Doorways or windows

FACING: A Viking may attack any target forward of its rear base edge with a ranged attack or in melee. However, it may not attack any enemies to the rear.

EXAMPLE: The Viking in the center can attack all four enemies to his front and sides, but cannot engage the two enemies behind his rear base edge.

Phase #4: Missile

All shooting is simultaneous and may be resolved in any order the players choose. Bows and javelins have a range in inches (18" and 8", respectively) and are measured from the edge of the Viking's base to the edge of an enemy's base with clear line of sight.

A Viking that moved more than half of their movement or is engaged in melee may not shoot. Vikings may not shoot into a melee if friendly Vikings are also engaged. Vikings may not target an enemy leader or hero unless they are the closest target. Enemies more than 2" deep into woods or inside a building (and not at a door or window) cannot be targeted.

To hit with a ranged weapon, the Viking must roll a D6 equal or lower than their Missile rating. If a hit is scored, each piece of cover between the shooter and the target (walls, fences, etc), has a chance to block the missile on a D6 roll of 4+.

If the shooter successfully rolls to hit and avoids all intervening cover, the enemy must see if their armor protects them from the hit. The enemy rolls a D6. If the roll is equal to their Armor rating or lower, the hit is ignored. If this roll is higher than their Armor rating, they suffer a wound. Place a Blood Token next to the wounded as a reminder for the End of Turn.

Phase #5: Melee

All melees are simultaneous and may be resolved in any order the players choose. A Viking is in melee if in base-to-base contact with an enemy. A Viking engaged by an enemy immediately turns to face their attacker and may not move for the remainder of the turn. If a Viking has multiple attackers in base-to-base contact, that Viking may decide which enemy they are facing.

A Viking may attempt to disengage from melee up to half their Move rating directly away, but every enemy in contact immediately gets one Free Attack. If a Viking has an enemy attacking to its front and rear, it may not attempt to disengage.

MELEE MODIFIERS:

-1 Melee rating if attacking across an obstacle or uphill
-1 Armor rating if attacked from the rear
-1 Melee rating if engaged by multiple enemies (except in Shield Wall)

In melee, a Viking must use at least one attack against an enemy directly in front of them, but any additional attacks may be used against any other viable target. A Viking rolls a D6 for each attack. Any roll equal to or lower than their Melee rating inflicts a hit. If the Viking successfully rolls to hit, the enemy checks to see if their armor protects them from the hit. The enemy rolls a D6. If the roll is their Armor rating or lower, the hit is ignored. If this roll is higher than their Armor rating, mark them with a Blood Token.

A DEATH WORTHY OF A SONG: In melee, if a Viking hits with a roll of "1" and the enemy rolls a "6" for their Armor rating, the attacker rolls a second, Free Attack against the same target! If successful on a second hit, the enemy is wounded with a gruesome, spectacular blow! Mark the wounded enemy with a Raven Token (any unique marker will do). All enemy figures within 6" of the Raven Token take a morale test in the End of Turn phase.

FREE ATTACKS: There are circumstances in the game when a Viking receives a Free Attack (ex: Death Worthy of a Song or against a figure trying to withdraw from combat). In a Free Attack, a Viking rolls to hit as normal, but the enemy does not roll for their Armor rating. This makes a successful Free Attack hit an automatic wound!

Shield Wall

SHIELD WALL: Three or more Vikings armed with shields, who are not currently engaged in melee, may form a Shield Wall. Move your Vikings into base-to-base contact during their Movement phase, all facing the same direction. Declaring a Shield Wall ends their remaining movement for that turn. Once formed into a Shield Wall, Vikings may only move at half their Move score, straight ahead or a quarter move back (no turns or wheels), and never over obstacles. A Shield Wall may reverse their facing 180°, but this requires all of their movement. A Shield Wall may have a second rank (place the rear rank in base-to-base contact behind the front rank).

All Vikings in a Shield Wall receive +2 to their Armor rating (maximum of 5, and no bonus if attacked from the rear). If the Shield Wall has more than one rank, Vikings in the rear rank may automatically take the place of wounded Vikings in the front rank. This does not count as movement and may help to preserve the formation! Figures armed with spears in a second rank may attack an enemy directly in front of them through a friendly figure in the front rank of the Shield Wall.

A Shield Wall is broken when there are less than three base-to-base Vikings. Vikings may voluntarily dissolve the Shield Wall at the beginning of the Movement phase with all figures behaving normally afterward (those Vikings cannot join another Shield Wall the same turn).

EXAMPLE: These five figures are in a Shield Wall. The two Vikings in the rear have spears and may attack from the second rank of the formation.

Wounded Vikings

WOUNDED VIKINGS: Vikings are assumed to only have one wound, unless otherwise noted with the "Tough" ability. Abilities are described in the next section, "Recruiting Your Warband." During the game, any time a Viking suffers a wound from ranged missiles or melee, mark them with a Blood Token or Raven Token, respectively.

The wounded Viking may still complete all phases of the turn, including any attacks of their own. Wounds not are applied until the End of Turn!

Phase #6: End of Turn

During the final phase, all Vikings marked with a Blood Token are removed from the game as killed, unless they are rated with the "Tough" trait and can sustain multiple wounds. Likewise, apply a wound to any Vikings marked with a Raven Token, but because their spectacular death is "worthy of a song," it requires a morale test for nearby Vikings who witnessed it. There are other circumstances that each trigger a morale test when they occur in a turn, which means a Viking may need to take multiple tests!

MORALE TEST REQUIRED:

Leader Killed This Turn: Every Viking in the entire warband
Warband Suffers Over 50% Wounded: Every Viking in the entire warband
Hero Killed This Turn: Any Vikings within the Morale Rating range of the Hero
Death Worthy of a Song: Enemy Vikings within 6" of a Raven Token

MORALE TEST: To pass a morale test, a Viking must roll a D6 and score equal to or lower than their Morale rating. Any Vikings part of a Shield Wall may add +1 to their Morale rating. Despite any bonuses, a natural roll of "6" always fails morale.

Leaders and Heroes have the ability to inspire nearby Vikings in their warband. And friendly Vikings within the Morale rating of a Leader or Hero in inches may use that Morale rating to make Morale tests. Vikings not within the Morale distance of a Leader or Hero use their own Morale rating.

EXAMPLE: With a Morale rating of 5, the Jarl can share his leadership with both friendly Vikings within 5" of his base for any morale tests.

Flee!

FLEE!: Vikings who fail their morale test are marked with a Coward Token and immediately turn directly away from the nearest enemy, fleeing their full Move rating away. All enemies in base-to-base contact with a fleeing Viking receive an immediate Free Attack! Vikings who flee off the table are removed. Vikings who attempt to flee but find themselves surrounded to their front and rear are immediately captured or killed, enemy's choice.

Winning the Game

WINNING the GAME: Once the End of Turn phase is complete, proceed to another turn with the same sequence. How do you eventually win the game? Your Viking skirmish can end in a number of different ways. You may be playing a "fight to the death," or you and your opponent could agree on a turn limit.

Ravenfeast is most enjoyable when you play a scenario with specific objectives, liking raiding a settlement. If you need inspiration for a scenario, try reading a period book or watching a Viking-age movie or TV show. And if you're still at a loss for ideas, we have three fun scenarios ready for you to try in the book, plus more online for free! Visit us at www.Ravenfeast.com for free resources to help you play.

Recruiting Your Warband

Reference the chart below to recruit your Viking warband before each game. The point values are the cost to recruit the Viking. Players may also choose to upgrade Vikings with special traits. The point value of your Jarl and Huskarls already include special traits, but others may also be purchased. Figures can be given multiple traits. The exact weapons your figures carry are up to you, but historically appropriate suggestions are listed on the next page.

Players may agree upon any warband point total they prefer, but 300-400 points is a good start!

Type	Move	Melee	Armor	Morale	Pts	Traits
Jarl	6"	5	5	5	75	Leader, Tough (3)
Huskarl	6"	4	4	4	36	Tough (2)
Berserker	6"	4 (x2)	3	4	30

Abilities

Leader (+15 points): The head man. Every army is required to have one, and only one, leader. Leaders may inspire nearby Vikings by allowing them to use his Morale rating if the Leader passes his morale test first.

Hero (+10 points): Add +1 Morale. Modified Morale ratings may never exceed 5 and multiple heroes do not stack cumulative bonuses. Heroes may inspire nearby Vikings by allowing them share to his Morale rating if the Hero passes his Morale test first.

Mighty (+5 points): A man of legendary strength. Enemy figures reduce their Armor rating by -1 when hit in melee by a Mighty figure.

Tough (variable cost): Vikings can normally only suffer a single wound, but additional wounds may be purchased at a cost of 50% of the figure's base point value per wound. For example, a Viking rated "Tough (2)," could sustain two wounds, while a Viking rated "Tough (3)" could sustain up to three wounds.

Unit Types

The printed unit-type page shows illustrated figures with these equipment captions. The captions are printed without unit names beside them, so they are listed in the order printed (top to bottom, left to right), not matched to unit types:

Chainmail, shield, sword or axe
Chainmail, shield, sword, spear, or axe
Furs, suicidal bravery, sword or axe
Cloth armor or chainmail, shield, sword, spear, or axe
Cloth armor, bow
Cloth armor, shield, spear
Cloth armor, javelin

Open Points Architecture

Ravenfeast includes a number of standard unit types pre-designed and already calculated for your convenience, but players who want to build their own special units are welcome to use the open design architecture below. Missile attacks can be purchased for long range (bows at 18") or short range (javelins and thrown weapons at 8"). Note that multiple melee or missile attacks may be purchased. A Berserker, for example, has 2 melee attacks.

Movement Score	Points	Missile Score (18" or 8")	Points	Melee Score	Points	Armor Score	Points	Morale Score	Points
14"	8	4	12 / 4	5	10	5	10	5	10
12"	6	3	9 / 3	4	8	4	8	4	8
10"

EXAMPLE: Let's design a unique Viking! Our customized Viking will be a Berserker wielding a sword and a throwing javelin. We'll upgrade his Move to 8", which costs 2 points. Then we'll assume he's quite skilled with a javelin and rate him with a Missile score of 3, costing 3 points for the shorter range javelin. A bow would have cost 9 points had we chosen that instead. Berserkers typically have two melee attacks, so we will buy two attacks at a rating of 4, costing 8 points each. Finally, we'll give our Berserker a rating of 4 in Armor and Morale. These each cost 8 points.

The total value of our unique model is 37 points (2+3+16+8+8). Adding any special traits would increase this cost.

Advanced Optional Rules

Once you've mastered the basic game concepts and played a few times, we suggest experimenting with some advanced rules. You are welcome to use as many of the optional rules as you want in your games, including the use of Rune cards for unpredictable twists or the introduction of Saxons as opponents. There are also game adaptations for Norse mythology if you want to battle monsters and trolls, as well as a "big battle" option for those of you who want to graduate beyond skirmish gaming into famous Dark Age battles like Stamford Bridge!

Rune Cards

You can go online to www.Ravenfeast.com to download a deck of Rune cards, print them at home, and cut them out. There are no duplicates in the deck and most cards have two possible effects. Some cards target figures, others terrain, and a few even target opposing players. Effects of a Rune card are immediate and may last a phase, a turn, or the entire battle. The text of each card explains all effects and many of them "break the rules" in a unique way, making your games less predictable and more fun!

Before the game begins, players agree on how many Rune cards will be randomly dealt to each player (we suggest one or two). If you choose to deal Rune cards, players may secretly study their own cards but should not share that information with other players, including their allies in a multi-player team game. If you are dealt a card that does not pertain to the scenario for any reason, show it to all other players, discard it, and draw a replacement.

Geld

Introducing the concept of money adds a new layer of strategy to your games! When using the optional Geld rules, players should gather a horde of trinkets to represent currency. These could be costume jewelry, plastic gold or silver coins, or whatever tokens you have. Each player begins the game with the same agreed-upon amount of Geld (between 3-6 coins generally works well). Based on the scenario, it may also be possible to earn additional Geld for achieving game objectives.

It is assumed that your leader carries your unspent Geld, and if your leader is slain during the game, the opposing player may assign one figure to spend a full turn "searching the body" to loot your Geld. Looted Geld becomes the possession of the victor! In the case of a tie game at the end, the player with the most Geld wins. Geld may be used to purchase rerolls or other fun things. Geld won during a game may be spent to purchase items at any time from the start of the game onward.

Geld purchases:

1 Geld: One reroll of your own or force any opponent to reroll
2 Geld: Receive one additional Rune card (if using the optional rule)
3 Geld: Add 1 Berserker to your warband (immediately deploy within 3" of a friendly leader or hero)

Saxons & Other Factions

Units in Ravenfeast are described with Viking terminology, which assumes players in your game are fielding a warband of Viking warriors. But the Danes did not always fight each other! The Saxons were a common opponent as Danes raided and conquered the various independent Saxon kingdoms of modern-day England.

Saxon infantry typically fought with spears and fielding a Saxon army introduces a new unit type to the game: cavalry. The Saxons and Danes did occasionally field small numbers of mounted troops, but the use of mass cavalry did not truly emerge until the arrival of the Normans in 1066. Mounted figures may never form a Shield Wall.

Type	Move	Melee	Armor	Morale	Pts	Traits
Lord	6"	5	5	5	75	Leader, Tough (3)
Mounted Spearman	14"	3	4	4	50	Mighty, Tough (2)
Hearthguard	6"	4	4	4	36	Tough (2)

Big Battle Ravenfeast

Ravenfeast is a skirmish game, where one figure represents one man, and a player might normally command a warband of 12-20 models. But what if you want to lead an army of 12,000 to 20,000 men, instead? This is quite simple to do using the same set of rules. It is only a matter of adjusting the figure scale. Instead of gluing one 28mm figure to a 1" base, try gluing four 15mm figures to a 1" square base! This new base can be used to represent a formation of 100 or 200 men. The exact number of figures you place on a unit base does not impact the game. The "base" is simply an abstract representation of a group of soldiers.

Playing a "big battle" version of the game functions much like the original skirmish rules. To introduce some command friction, only units within the Morale rating distance of a Leader or Hero are allowed to create or disband a Shield Wall. This means, for example, a Leader/Jarl with Morale of 5 must be within 5" of a friendly unit to command them into a Shield Wall. In all other respects, the game proceeds in the same manner.

EXAMPLE: 15mm figures mounted on group bases for a "big battle" game.

Mythological Ravenfeast

The men and women who lived through the Viking era widely believed in magic and Norse mythology. Players can use Ravenfeast to adventure in this more fantastical setting, hunting monsters and clashing with trolls! Use the open point architecture earlier in this book to let your imagination run wild when designing Nordic monsters or creatures.

Visit us at www.Ravenfeast.com to download a free list of creatures and monsters for your next mythological adventure! Trolls, dragons, wolves, and the undead Draugar await you on the road to Valhalla!

Sample Scenarios

Ravenfeast can be played without a specific scenario. You and your opponent(s) are always welcome to agree upon a point total and simply throw down your Vikings on a kitchen table and fight to the death! But after a few games like this, you may want a more challenging tactical experience and a more narrative, story-driven scenario.

Each of the three scenarios offered in this chapter portrays a different aspect of Viking warfare. A 4'x4' table space is suggested for these games. Each scenario includes a map, a list of starting forces, the objectives, and victory conditions. Players may even wish to play these scenarios linked together, tracking their Geld and casualties between games!

"Back to the Boats!"

SET UP: 2 players. The warband attempting to escape is the defender (blue). The warband attempting to prevent this escape is the ambusher (red). The defender sets up on the road. The ambusher sets up half of his force along the escape route and half of his force split between opposite corners. If you do not have a longboat, just set up a table with one edge representing the safety of the coast.

FORCES: The defender should have a warband of no more than 300 points. The ambusher should field up to 500 points. Both forces must be led by a Jarl.

GELD: Both players start with 3 Geld.

OBJECTIVES: The defender must break through the trap and escape back to the longship. The ambusher wins if he can prevent this escape!

VICTORY: The defender wins a major victory if at least one Jarl or Hero safely reaches the longship, along with half of his men. It is a minor victory as long as a Jarl or Hero reaches the longship. Any other result is the victory for the ambusher.

"Fight for honor!"

SET UP: 2 players. Both rival Jarls are placed in between the two warbands, within 6" of each other (in the grey map box). The remainder of each warband deploys at least 12" apart in their respective camp area (red & blue).

FORCES: Both players should have equally sized warbands (we suggest about a dozen Vikings per side, or 300 points), led by a Jarl with at least two Huskarls.

GELD: Both players begin the game with 3 Geld.

OBJECTIVES: For this scenario, both Jarls are rated with Armor 3. A night of feasting means they either are not wearing all of their armor, or their wits are a bit dull from mead! The opposing Jarls are required to charge each other and engage in single combat until at least one wound is inflicted. Whenever a Jarl is wounded, the warband of the wounded Jarl must take a morale test at the end of that phase. If the morale test is passed, the warband continues to cheer their Jarl on and the single-combat challenge continues. Roll for morale each time a Jarl is wounded. If any Viking in the warband fails his morale test, instead of fleeing (the normal reaction in the rules), the entire warband of the wounded Jarl attacks the opposing warband and a general melee breaks out! If a Jarl dies and his warband passes all of their morale checks, the honor duel is over... perhaps a grudge is held....

VICTORY: The battle is over when a duel ends with one dead Jarl. There's bound to be a good fight and a chance to nurse a grudge for a future encounter....

"Pillage & Burn!"

SET UP: 2 or more players. One side is the attacker and one is the defender. If you have an uneven number of players, there should always be more attackers than defenders. Both sides roll a D6 to begin and the highest roll wins. The winning side may deploy first or second. Three buildings are required for set up (see scenario map).

FORCES: The defender should have a warband of no more than 300 points that includes at least three Thralls. The attacker should field up to 500 points. In a game with 3 or more players, keep the point ratio between the defenders and attackers the same.

GELD: Zero to start, but players may earn Geld during the game (see Objectives).

OBJECTIVES: The attacker must attempt to loot the village and capture Thralls. To loot and burn the longhouse, the attacker must occupy the longhouse with one or more Vikings. For each complete turn an attacking Viking is inside an undefended building, earn 1 Geld by looting. If inside the main longhouse, earn D3 (a six-sided die divided in half) Geld per turn. To capture a Thrall, the attacker must defeat a Thrall in combat, in which case the Thrall is automatically captured and moves with the unit (they may do nothing else while captive). If a defending Viking defeats an attacker with a captive, they may liberate them, allowing the freed Thralls to move and fight as normal.

VICTORY: The attacker wins by exiting the table with as much Geld and as many Thralls as possible. Only Vikings who safely exit the table keep the Geld and Thralls they looted! The defender wins 3 Geld for each attacking Jarl, Hero, or Huskarl who does not successfully escape the table. The side with the most Geld wins the scenario.

Hobby Crafting

Miniature wargaming is a hobby with many facets, with modeling, painting, and crafting representing just a few of them. Some players find these creative elements of the hobby exciting, while others find them intimidating when starting from scratch. This chapter will help get you going with no prior experience required.

We'll teach you basic skills for painting and terrain construction, and we encourage you to visit Little Wars TV on YouTube for more detailed video instructions. We have lots of modeling tips and tricks for new and veteran players alike!

Preparing Your Vikings

Tools and materials:

X-Acto knife, scalpel, or fine file
Super Glue or CA glue
White glue or PVA glue
Disposable paintbrush or toothpick
1" metal washers, plastic, MDF, or wooden bases
Sand or fine model railroad ballast
Flat black primer or spray paint

Remove your Viking miniatures from their package and check for missing parts. If the spears, swords, or other parts are bent, gently bend them back into position slowly so the part does not break.
If preparing a metal miniature, scrape off the excess mold lines or "flash," but be careful not to damage the detail of the miniature. If assembling a plastic miniature, Super Glue the pieces together per the manufacturer instructions.
Place a drop of Super Glue or CA glue on the center of a 1" base to affix the miniature. Allow the glue to fully set. Metal washers can be used as bases, or you can purchase plastic, wood, or MDF bases if you prefer.
Holding the miniature upright and level, use a small disposable paintbrush or toothpick to dab white or PVA glue around the base, being careful not to cover the feet. Make sure the glue covers the whole base. Once applied, keep the miniature level and dip it into a container of sand or model railroad ballast and then tap off the excess into a bowl or can. Allow the glue to fully set.
Prime your miniatures using flat black spray paint. Use short bursts of spray in a smooth motion, making sure not to spray too closely to the miniature. Several light and even coatings are preferable to one thick coat. If you are unsure of your ability to spray paint a miniature evenly, use a paintbrush to apply a thin coat of black acrylic paint by hand. It is slower, but easier to control the final result.

Painting Your Vikings

Tools and materials:

Small, high-quality paintbrushes (1, 0, and 00 sizes recommended)
Acrylic paints (flesh color, metallic silver, and muted earth tones)
Black and brown acrylic wash (available at hobby stores)
Cup of water
Static grass or model railroad flock
A clean, very well-lit table surface for painting (natural light is ideal)

Once your Viking is primed black, paint any armor, swords, or metal with metallic silver. Chainmail can be dry-brushed. Dry-brushing is a fast and easy technique that will help you get your Vikings painted quickly. See our YouTube video tutorial to learn how to dry-brush.
Paint the pants and shoes a neutral color, like brown or gray, and paint the tunic a brighter color.
Paint the shield in at least two contrasting colors.
Paint the skin a European skin tone.
This step is optional, but recommended. Wash metallic areas and the shield with black wash. When dry, proceed to wash the pants, tunic, and flesh with brown wash. See our YouTube video tutorial to learn how to apply washes.
Paint the base in a dark brown color and then drybrush a lighter earth brown (see dry-brushing above).
Put several drops of white or PVA glue on the base in patches around the feet.
Sprinkle on flocking or static grass and lightly blow or tap off any excess.
If desired, seal your Viking with matte spray sealer in a well-ventilated area. Make sure you do not spray outside if it is cold, wet, or humid.

Free Paper Vikings

Our goal in publishing Ravenfeast is to get you and your friends playing a fun, historical wargame right away! Maybe you don't own any suitable Dark Age miniatures, or maybe you'd just like to try playing before taking the plunge and ordering some figures of your own. In either case, we have an affordable, immediate solution for you: paper figures!

Our free paper models are hand-drawn, double-sided Vikings you can use to represent a variety of unit types in the game. An example of a spear-armed Bondi warrior appears in the book! For an introductory game, we recommend about one dozen figures per player.

ASSEMBLY:

Download the free PDF at www.Ravenfeast.com and print as many copies as you want!
The free paper figures are offered in beautiful, stylized full color and also in black and white for those who might prefer to customize and color their own models. Pick whichever option is best for you!
Use scissors to cut out each figure and fold them where indicated. With a glue stick, glue the halves of each figure together.
Your Viking warband is ready to pillage the countryside! But if you'd like to enhance your figures a bit more, you can add grass to the paper bases with flock or static grass.

Terrain Essentials

A cloth GAME MAT is the foundation of your miniature tabletop battlefield. You can make your own mat by purchasing plush felt from a local craft store. Alternatively, you can buy a professional mat from a manufacturer.

HILLS are placed underneath the ground cloth. You can cut and shape hills from Styrofoam or polystyrene insulation board. The hills pictured in the book are 1" polystyrene, with the edges cut on an angle and sanded down smooth. You can stack various shapes and sizes of hills to create dramatic, rolling contours.

There are many creative ways to represent FIELDS, but the tall wheat shown in the book is made from cutting up an outdoor doormat. Visit us on YouTube for video tutorials on other affordable, easy field ideas.

TREES are a key feature on most battlefields, and while there are ways to hand-make them from scratch, we strongly recommend buying your trees. Links are provided in the next chapter.

SCRUB and BUSHES can be modeled with lichen, sold in bags at most craft stores. Model railroad suppliers make bushes in various types and colors, as well. Rocks and twigs from your backyard can also serve as rough ground.

These simple STONE WALLS are home-made by indenting polystyrene insulation with a ballpoint pen! A full video tutorial on YouTube shows how to make stone walls on a budget.

Every village needs a LONGHOUSE! Are you ready to build your own?

Building a Longhouse

Materials and tools:

Flat black or dark brown primer or spray paint
Acrylic paints (grays, browns, and earth tones)
Basswood or balsa strips in various sizes
Several sizes of stiff-bristle paint brushes
Thin cardboard (like cereal boxes)
White glue, PVA glue, or hot glue
Foamcore or cork tile
Teddy Bear fur/fabric
Sharp pencil or pen
X-Acto knife
Ruler

Step-by-Step Construction Guide

STEP #1: Determine the size and shape of your longhouse. Trace four wall sections and two roof sections onto foam core or cork tile. Remember to visit us on YouTube for a complete video tutorial on how to make this longhouse, including the exact dimensions used.

STEP #2: Cut out the wall sections using a sharp X-Acto knife. Make several passes rather than one deep cut and change the blade as soon as it starts to become dull. Then glue the wall and roof sections together to form the structure. Hot glue is recommended!

STEP #3: Glue strips of thin cardboard planking to the walls. Using scissors, trim the edges evenly once dry.

STEP #4: Attach basswood or balsa strips to represent structural beams on the ends of the longhouse and roof edges.

STEP #5: Cut a swatch of teddy bear fur (or similar fabric) to fit the roof and glue it down with PVA or white glue.

STEP #6: Make sure the direction of the fur runs from the top ridge of the roof down to the bottom edges.

STEP #7: Coat the fur in PVA or white glue, thinned with water. Allow time to dry. Then, use craft paint to prime the longhouse black or dark brown.

STEP #8: Drybrush the building with gray or grayish-brown. Then heavily drybrush lighter shades of gray to represent worn wood. The roof should be drybrushed with tan colors to represent thatch.

Expanding Your Horizons

Graduating to New Games

There is a wide world of historical wargaming beyond Ravenfeast. You can play more advanced rules in the same era, or you can venture to a different chapter of history. We hope this free book starts you on the path to a long journey into the hobby of historical miniature wargaming. If you want to meet thousands of other players from around the world who gather for large conventions, visit the Historical Miniatures Gaming Society (www.hmgs.org) to see a schedule of future events.

After mastering Ravenfeast, you may find yourself looking for a more complex, more advanced game. Luckily for you, those options exist in abundance! Consider these Dark Age-era games as the next stop on your adventure to Valhalla:

SAGA or Strandhogg: Viking skirmish games
Lion Rampant or Tribal: Generic skirmish rules through early medieval eras
Hail Caesar: Mass battle system for larger engagements, with a Viking supplement
Dux Brittanniarum: Skirmish gaming in pre-Viking, Arthurian Britain

Of course, you may also be itching to leave the Dark Ages altogether and explore a new era of history. For some inspiration wargaming other periods, visit us at Little Wars TV on YouTube or our official website, www.LittleWarsTV.com. We've staged some spectacular games, like Gettysburg, Agincourt, Trafalgar, and much more!

Links & Resources

There are many more companies than the ones listed here, but we've had good experiences with these suppliers. Little Wars TV receives no commission on sales. We simply like to support independent businesses whenever possible, as miniature wargaming largely remains a "cottage industry." As new companies emerge, we will keep a fully updated list of links on the official Ravenfeast website!

Online resources:

Official Ravenfeast website: www.Ravenfeast.com

28mm Viking miniatures:

Brigade Games: www.brigadegames.3dcartstores.com
Footsore Miniatures: www.footsorenorthamerica.com
Gripping Beast: www.grippingbeast.co.uk
Victrix Miniatures: www.victrixlimited.com
Warlord Games: www.warlordgames.com
Wargames Foundry: www.wargamesfoundry.com

15mm Viking miniatures:

Essex Miniatures: www.essexminiatures.co.uk
Khurusan Miniatures: www.khurasanminiatures.tripod.com
Peter Pig: www.peterpig.co.uk
Old Glory 15s: www.oldglory15s.com

Ground cloth mats:

Cigar Box Battle Mats: www.cigarboxbattlestore.bigcartel.com
Deep Cut Studios: www.deepcutstudio.com
Geek Gaming Mats: www.footsorenorthamerica.com
The Wargame Company: www.thewargamingcompany.com

Trees (all scales):

Woodland Scenics: www.woodlandscenics.com
The Wargame Company: www.thewargamingcompany.com

28mm Dark Age buildings:

Acheson Creations: www.achesoncreations.com
Things from the Basement: www.thingsfromthebasement.com

15mm Dark Age buildings:

The Wargame Company: www.thewargamingcompany.com

Quick Reference

This quick-start guide serves as a reminder for the most important rules. It is not a complete version of the game.

TURN SEQUENCE: Each phase is considered simultaneous. Mark all casualties with Blood or Raven Tokens, and resolve at End of Turn.

INITIATIVE: Each player rolls a six-sided dice (D6). Subtract the current number of heroes and leaders in your warband. The player with the lowest total goes first or nominates who goes first. Play proceeds clockwise.
RALLY: A Viking who previously failed a morale roll and is marked with a Coward Token must try to rally by rolling its Morale rating or less. If they pass, the Viking immediately acts as normal. If failed, remove the Viking from play.
MOVEMENT: Starting with the player who won the initiative, each player moves all of their Vikings. A Viking may move up to its Move rating in inches. Moving a Viking into base-to-base contact with an enemy locks both figures into melee and they each forfeit any remaining movement for that turn.
- Terrain: "Rough" terrain costs double the movement distance. Obstacles, such as stone walls or hedges, or passing through a building doorway, cost 2" of movement.
- Facing: A Viking may attack any target forward of its rear base edge.
MISSILE: Vikings who moved more than half their movement or are engaged in melee may not shoot. To hit with a ranged weapon, the Viking must roll a D6 equal to or lower than its Missile rating. The target ignores the wound by rolling their Armor rating or less.
- Cover: Enemies more than 2" into woods or inside buildings cannot be targeted. For each piece of cover between the shooter and the target, the shot is deflected on a D6 roll of 4+.
MELEE: A Viking is in melee if in base-to-base contact with an enemy. If a Viking has multiple attackers in base-to-base contact, that Viking may decide which enemy to face. A Viking may attempt to disengage from melee up to half its Move rating directly away, but every enemy in contact gets one Free Attack.