Nature of the Beast: Prairie vs. Polar Rulebook

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

• Object of the Game
  • Contents of this battle box
• Favor and Fury
• Scorched Earth
• Winning the Game
• The Cards
  • Animal cards
  • Leadership cards
  • Event cards
  • Human cards
  • Item cards
  • Location cards
  • Turn icons
• Starting a Game
• Your Turn
• Action Explanations
  • A. Recruit (1 action)
  • B. Move (1 action)
  • C. Untilt (1 action)
  • D. Attack (1 action)
  • Other actions
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Variants
  • Bare Bones
  • Doubles
  • King of the Hill
  • Supply Line
• Deck Building Rules
• Changes from the First Edition

Object of the Game

Nature of the Beast (NotB) is an expandable strategy game. This box contains enough for two players. With the purchase of more decks, you can easily customize the pre-built decks or add more players.

Each player tries to build an animal army from their own decks. To win, you must recruit enough animals to fill your field before your opponent does!

Fans of the first edition should find themselves right at home here. We've tried to simplify/clarify the rules where possible. Page 19 summarizes some of the bigger changes.

Contents of this battle box

• Two pre-built habitat decks (69 cards each)
• Two fury/favor tracker cards
• 20 bonus cards (for customizing your own decks)
• 6 game boards
• 20 multi-purpose tokens

Favor and Fury

Included with each habitat is a card that is used to track two very important numbers:

Favor: Favor is the pull you have in the world of humans. Certain cards require that you spend this to buy items, hire humans and generally do things that animals cannot do for themselves. Be stingy with your favor. It is hard to come by.

Fury: Fury represents how high you are on humanity's radar. As you launch attacks or perform "politeness challenged" actions against your opponents this number will creep up. Watch out: you are automatically eliminated from the game if your fury ever reaches 10.

An important pit-stop on the road to self-damnation happens when you hit five points of fury. Your army is considered to be in Dark Nature. You are now vicious enough to use means that are abhorred by the faint-of-heart. Tread this path carefully; evil is a slippery slope!

Dark Nature cards are indicated by black turn icons (see the Turn icon section below). You can have Dark Nature cards in play even if you don't meet the fury requirement; you just can't use their Dark Nature abilities.

Nickel's Two Cents: You'll get to determine how much favor you start with. The more you start with, the easier it will be for you to get some human assistance. The trade-off is you'll have to start with more fury too. Is it worth it? Only you can answer that question.

Scorched Earth

Once you run out of cards in a deck, you are out of cards. If nobody has enough animals left to fill their field, then it's a draw.

It is kind of like playing Global Thermonuclear War, but in this case, the only winning move is to shake it off and try again!

Winning the Game

All good things must come to an end!

Traditional Victory: Win by filling every space in your field with an animal. The instant this happens, you win.

Fury Defeat: You instantly lose if your fury ever reaches 10. Humanity feels threatened enough by your not-so-secret animal army to purge you from the good Earth. If there is only one player remaining, they automatically win.

The next couple pages summarize the different types of cards. Feel free to skip this for now and move right onto setting up the game on page 8.

The Cards

The cards are broken up into two different decks per player: troops and tricks.

Troops deck:

• Animals: The nameless soldiers of your army that vary widely in traits and abilities.
• Legends: A special type of animal. These famous individuals can change the course of any game.
• Leadership: Grants your ordinary animals extraordinary abilities.

Tricks deck:

• Events: A variety of happenings both inside and outside of battle.
• Locations: Field space upgrades which provide troops with additional abilities.
• Items: Useful tools of humanity for your army... for a price.
• Humans: The rare person who both knows of the animal secret wars and is willing to assist your cause.

Animal cards

Each animal card shows:

• Name: Usually denotes a general animal type. If the name is in quotes, however, then it is a Legend. These unique, powerful animals have an extra ability in battle that is described under Battle below.
• Rank: Animals with higher ranks are more powerful and tend to be more valuable in your army's 'pecking order'. The higher an animal's rank, the harder that animal will be to recruit.
• Combat: Physical prowess and fighting ability. Critical for surviving battles.
• Clout: Charisma and gravitas. Critical for recruiting high ranked animals.
• Cunning: Intelligence and ingenuity. A superior cunning can activate certain abilities both inside and outside battles.
• Ability/Turn icon: Each animal possesses useful and unique traits. (Turn icons are explained below.)
• Vectors: These arrows indicate the animal's area of influence. A field space in a direction allowed by an animal's vectors is considered 'legitimate'. You will see that term a lot. Vectors are critical to movement, allying other animals in battle, and claiming locations among other things. A tilted animal is considered to have NO vectors.
• Habitat: Indicates which environment the animal hails from. Many cards depend on an animal's habitat. An animal is considered to have only half of its total clout (including any bonuses), rounded down, when attempts to recruit animals outside of its own habitat.
• Size: Some cards require certain sized animals in order to take effect. (tiny, small, medium, large, or huge)
• Special movement: A few cards require an animal to have a specific means of transportation in order to take effect. Not all animals have these. (leap, flight, climb, burrow, or swim)

Nickel's Two Cents: Legends like myself are unique. If I'm on your field, then it makes sense that I can't be on someone else's field too. Now other players could have a copy of me in their pens, but they couldn't recruit me until I was off of your field.

Leadership cards

If you flip over a leadership card, you have three choices:

1. Defer the card (see page 14).
2. Dismiss the card (see page 14).
3. Promote an animal.

Note: if you choose to defer the leadership card, it will cost you one of your three actions.

If you choose to promote, place the next card from your troop deck face up on top of the leadership card. This links those cards together until the combo is trashed.

On the off chance that you flip a legend on top of a leadership card (or even more rare: leadership card on leadership card), then you must dismiss or defer one of the two. You chose.

Once you have a proper leadership/animal combo, you can treat it like any other potential recruit. You could even defer or dismiss the combo, but a deferral at this point will cost two actions since there are two cards to shuffle back into the deck.

A leadership card has these parts:

• Ability/Turn icon: A new ability for this animal in addition to its normal one.
• Trait bonuses: Some leadership cards grant an immediate bonus to one or more traits. The cards should be arranged so that any bonus aligns with the appropriate trait. (Don't forget the ability under there!)
• Rank cost: Animals with leadership are highly sought after. This is reflected by an immediate increase in the animal's rank. Any rank related actions (i.e. recruitment, claiming locations) must account for the higher rank.

You may only have one leadership card in your field at a time. You may, however, have other leadership/animal combos waiting in your pen.

Event cards

Event cards are tricks. Each event card shows:

1. Turn icon: Indicates when it is used (see Turn icons below).
2. Ability: The card's effect on gameplay. The rules on a card always take precedence if there is a conflict with the rules booklet.
3. Trick cost: More powerful cards will often have a trash can symbol. The number in that can equals the number of tricks you must discard from your hand before you use that card's ability.

Human cards

Each human card shows:

1. Prerequisite: Humans will only join your team if you meet their expectations. You cannot bring a human into play unless you meet their requirement. Humans untilt for free at the beginning of your turn as long as you continue to meet their prerequisites. If you don't, then you cannot untilt them.
2. Ability/Turn icon: Each human can offer unique assistance to your cause. More information about calling a human ally can be found under Call human ally below.

Item cards

Each item card shows:

1. Favor cost: The amount of favor that you must spend to equip an untilted animal in your field with this item. An animal can be equipped with as many items as you want at the same time.
2. Ability/Turn icon: An item must be equipped by an animal before its ability can be used. More information about equipping items can be found under Equip item below.

Location cards

Each location card shows:

1. Rank Prerequisite: Indicates the overall power of the location. You will have to have at least this much rank of animals on your field to try to play this location on your board.
2. Ability/Turn icon: Each location bestows animals on its field space with an additional ability.
3. Habitat Designation: Only animals from the same habitat as this location can contribute to claiming the location. Unless the location states otherwise, any animal can use the ability, regardless of habitat.

To fans of the first edition: the City, Suburb and Farm habitats are considered 'Civilized' while the Forest, Polar, and Prairie habitats are considered 'Wild'. (Only cards from the first two Battle Boxes refer to these broader categories.)

More information about claiming locations can be found under Claim location below.

Turn icons

The turn icon indicates when the ability is used:

• An up arrow (hollow): used during an opponent's turn.
• A down arrow (blue): used during your turn, as a free action.
• A down arrow (with a bar, blue): used during your turn, and costs 1 action.
• An up/down arrow (orange/blue): used at any time, as dictated by the card text.

Additional marks on the turn icon:

• An explosion around the icon means the ability is a battle action (see Battle below).
• A black icon means the ability can only be used in Dark Nature (see Favor and Fury above).

Starting a Game

1. Separate your troops and tricks cards into two decks (they have different back designs). Shuffle each and place them on the table.
2. Decide whether you want a quick game (15-20 minutes) or a full game (45-60 minutes). We recommend starting with a couple of quick games until you get the hang of NotB.
3. Each player places two game boards in front of them for a quick game or three for a full game.
4. Choose your starting fury and favor and mark the values on the tracker card. You must start with an equal amount of each.
5. Draw the top three cards from your tricks deck as your starting hand. Don't show these cards to the other players!
6. Each player flips over the top card of their troops deck. The player with the highest rank goes first (although a leadership card beats all). In case of a tie, draw again. Reshuffle these cards back into the troops decks.
7. Place your top three troop cards face down in your pen spaces from left to right.

The layout of a quick game and a full game is shown on page 8 of the booklet:

• Quick game: your field is a front row and a back row of three spaces each, with the human spaces to the left of the rows, the fury and favor tracker beside the field, your pen (three spaces) below the field, the troop deck and the trick deck at the bottom corners.
• Full game: your field is three rows of three spaces each (front row, middle row and back row), with the same human spaces, tracker, pen, troop deck and trick deck around it.

Nickel's Two Cents: One thing we left out of the diagram is your 'trash pile'. That's our clever name for your pile of discarded troops and tricks. Once your decks are gone, you don't get more cards. This isn't usually an issue in the quick game, but it's something to seriously keep an eye on in a full game.

Your Turn

1. Flip over as many face down troops in your pen as you wish. They must remain in the same pen space.

2. For each troop card you didn't flip over (either because it was already flipped or because you chose to leave it face down), you may draw one additional trick if you desire.

   Example: You flipped over one troop card, so you could draw two tricks. If you had flipped over two troops, then you could draw one trick.

   There is no limit to the number of trick cards you can have in your hand during your turn. However, at the end of your turn you must discard down to five cards.

3. Take three actions. (There are also many free actions which don't cost you one of your three actions.)

4. Discard your trick hand down to five cards. Play then proceeds to the player on your left.

Nickel's Two Cents: Early in the game, there should be a lot of turn-over in your pen as you get some soldiers onto the field. Typically recruitment slows down a little after a few turns. This should allow you to stock up on some free trick cards. However don't let your recruiting slow down too much. You better have a good reason for keeping animals in your pen for more than a turn or two.

Action Explanations

The game will be won or lost by how wisely you choose your actions each turn. Listed below is everything that you can do, starting with the four most important actions.

Example: Let's spend an action to recruit the legendary Artork (rank 8)! If we tilt the Arctic Fox and the Cautious Caribou (3 clout each) and trash the Loyal Lemmings (2 clout) we'll have enough clout to equal Artork's rank. Well done! Based on vectors, Artork only has one movement option: the middle of the back row.

A. Recruit (1 action)

Each face up animal in your pen represents a potential soldier in your army. To recruit an animal you must meet or beat its rank using other animals' clout.

There are two ways of doing this:

1) Trashing other recruits. You can choose to trash one or two animals from your pen to lavish attention on a more desirable recruit. Each animal that you trash contributes its clout to the recruitment attempt. Replace those trashed cards with face down cards from your troops deck. Those cards cannot be flipped over until your next turn.

(Your decks don't replenish in NotB, so if you overuse this technique, you'll risk running out of troops, especially in a full game.)

2) Tilting animals in your field. You can send current members of your army to win over a recruit. Each animal that you tilt adds its clout to the recruitment attempt.

You can use these techniques separately or together during a recruitment. No matter what you do, it still only counts as one action.

Any clout above and beyond what was needed to recruit an animal is lost. You cannot spend excess clout on another animal's recruitment.

Successfully recruited animals enter the back row of your field based on their vectors and are immediately available for use. Remember to immediately replace the recruited animal with another face down troop card.

Nickel's Two Cents: 'Tilting an animal' simply means turning the card at an angle to indicate that it has been used to do something. Tilted animals are exhausted from their efforts. They can't move, attack, ally, recruit, claim locations or equip items. Many of their abilities will also be unavailable. So untilt them already!

B. Move (1 action)

An untilted animal may move to any open, adjacent space within its vectors (a.k.a. 'a legitimate' space). This does not tilt the animal.

An animal can perform the same action, like movement, more than once during a turn. Plan your moves carefully. More than one army has been thwarted by their own troops literally blocking the path to victory.

Remember: moving doesn't tilt an animal!

C. Untilt (1 action)

An animal will remain tilted until you spend an action to untilt it. Tilted animals aren't very useful in the secret battle for domination.

Example: The same animal can take multiple actions during the same turn. Let's say the Rattlesnake was tilted. We could untilt it (one action), and then move it two legitimate spaces (one action each). That would use up our three actions.

D. Attack (1 action)

You don't have to attack other animals to win NotB, but a few strategic battles can really turn the tide of war in your favor.

Any animal in your field can tilt and declare an attack on any other animal in an opposing field. Once a battle is declared, you and your opponent will alternate battle actions starting with the defender. This will continue until both players consecutively pass their battle actions.

There is no limit to the number of times you can use each of the following four battle actions:

1) Use a card's ability. Only abilities marked with the battle action turn icon (see Turn icons above) can be used here.

2) Call for allies. If you have another untilted animal whose vectors are pointing towards your combatant, it can tilt to assist in battle. Regardless of its listed combat value, any ally will always add +1 to your combat total.

If you are playing a three or four person game, you may also try asking another player to send an ally. That player may only tilt animals in his front row, regardless of vectors. You can try to work out a verbal commitment from that player, but then you must make an official invitation. If that player accepts, then he must tilt an animal in his front row and you add +1 to your combat total. If that player declines then that will count as a passed battle action for you. (That could be very bad.)

This is the only way other animals or players can assist during a battle.

3) Legend boost. If your combatant is a legend, you may trash any trick from your hand to add +1 to your combat total. Though you can only discard one trick per battle action, you may do this as many times as you want during a battle.

4) Pass. You may choose to take no battle action. This usually means you are either confident of victory or resigned to defeat.

If your opponent also passes then it is time to resolve the battle. If they choose a different battle action, you'll get to choose any battle action you want again.

When both sides are ready to resolve the battle, each player totals their combat score. The higher total wins. If it is a tie, the defender wins.

The losing combatant is trashed. The attacker gains one fury whether they won or not.

Here is a short example of a battle. (Any battle actions besides choosing to pass will be represented on the players' fields.)

1. The polar player spends an action to tilt Artork and declares an attack on the Covert Chuckwalla! (attacker: 2, defender: 0)
2. Defender's battle action: the player tilts the Chuckwalla to use its ability. Since it is defending from a prairie location it can scramble behind some rocks to gain +2 combat. (attacker: 2, defender: 2)
3. Attacker's battle action: since attackers lose if the combatants tie, the player uses Artork's legend boost ability to trash a trick from her hand to gain +1 combat. (attacker: 3, defender: 2)
4. Defender's battle action: the player tilts the Bobcat Stalker as an ally. Even though the Bobcat Stalker has a 3 combat, allies always add +1. Hey, the Chuckwalla will take any help it can get! (attacker: 3, defender: 3)
5. Attacker's battle action: the player uses Artork's legend boost again. She discards another trick from her hand to gain another +1 combat. (attacker: 4, defender: 3)
6. Defender's battle action: Wind Dancer cannot ally since her vectors don't point toward the defender. The Vindictive Badger can't help either since he is tilted. With no more allies and no relevant tricks, there is no other option but to pass. (attacker: 4, defender: 3)
7. Attacker's battle action: the player could take more battle actions, but since she is already winning, she also passes. With two consecutive passes, the players resolve the battle. (attacker: 4, defender: 3)

Artork wins the battle! The Chuckwalla is sent to its player's trash pile and the polar player gains one additional fury.

Nickel's Two Cents, terminology:

• Adjacent field spaces which an untilted animal has a vector pointing to are 'legitimate' spaces.
• 'Resolving a battle' means the battle actions are over. It is time to add up the combat totals and see who wins and who is trashed.
• 'Ending a battle' means the fight immediately stops without a normal resolution. The consequences of this will vary from card to card.

Other actions

There are plenty of other actions besides those four to keep an animal army busy.

E. Call human ally (free). If you meet the prerequisites of a human in your hand, you may play it to the left of one of your rows (see page 8). Each row can only hold one human, but you can trash a human in play if you want to place a newer one in the same spot.

Humans start untilted and, like all cards, are available for immediate use. Remember that they will untilt for free at the beginning of your turn as long as you continue to meet their prerequisite. If not, they remain tilted that turn.

F. Claim location (free). You can place a location from your hand onto any of your field spaces, even one that doesn't contain an animal, as long as there isn't already a location there.

Total the rank of the animal in the target space (if any) with the rank of any adjacent, untilted animals with vectors pointing to that space.

If you meet or exceed the rank prerequisite, you may place the location. It remains in that field space for the rest of the game.

Claiming a location does not tilt the animals involved. Remember that tilted animals cannot help claim locations.

Example: The middle of the back row is the only field space that meets this location's rank 6 prerequisite. If the Covert Chuckwalla was untilted, the location could also be placed in the left of the back row.

G. Defer pen animal (1 action). Sometimes it is too early in the game to recruit a powerful animal from your pen. Replace it with a face down card from your troops deck and then shuffle that recruit back into your troops deck.

H. Discard pen animal (free). Sometimes you don't want to waste an action on deferring a recruit. You can trash it and replace it with a face down card from your troops deck.

I. Dismiss field animal (1 action). If an animal (tilted or untilted) in your field is ruining your strategy you can trash it. Tilt any higher ranked animal on your field (regardless of vectors) and you can trash the offending animal.

J. Draw a trick (1 action). There is no limit to the number of cards you can have in your hand, but at the end of your turn you must discard down to five.

K. Equip item (free). If you have enough favor to pay for an item in your hand, you may place it under any untilted animal in your field. There is no limit to the number of items an animal may carry, but if the animal is lost, so are its items!

L. Transfer items (free). An animal in your field may tilt to give any or all of its items to an untilted animal in its vectors.

M. Play event (varies). Playing an event card from your hand may or may not cost you an action. You also may have to trash other cards from your hand to activate it. See the Event cards section above for more details.

M. Pass action (1 action). If doing nothing suits your fancy, feel free.

Editor's note: the source prints the letter "M" twice, once for Play event and once for Pass action; the lettering here follows the printed text.

Nickel's Two Cents, a couple of things to remember:

• Once a card is on the field, it is ready for immediate use. So you could, for instance, recruit an animal and then send it off to battle during the same turn.
• You cannot interrupt one action to complete another one. For example, you can't spend an action to equip an item in the middle of an attack action. This problem is easily avoided with a little planning ahead of time.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if there's no room to move my recruit onto my field? Don't let this happen. Make sure there is an open field space for the animal. If there isn't, don't waste an action trying to recruit it!

Ug. My whole field is clogged up with animals that can't move. Uh, this isn't even a question. In any case, this could have been avoided with some planning. Now you'll have to dismiss an animal or two from your field (see Dismiss field animal above).

Can I still use an untilted human's ability if I don't meet his or her prerequisite? Yes, but once they are tilted, they will remain that way until you meet their prerequisites again.

Is it OK to peek at your face down animals in your pen during other players' turns? If everyone agrees, it is a great way to speed up the game. There will be minor strategic changes, since you'll know what animals you have in each pen space before you flip them. Still, an animal cannot be dismissed or deferred until it is face up in your pen.

Heck, some abilities that affect battles don't even require a battle action! They are considered 'always on' (ex. Turkey Vulture, Free Range Cattle, War Paint). This is made clear by the fact that their turn icons aren't surrounded by the explosion graphic.

What if I can't bring out any of my three starting animals in my pen? This is very rare, however not statistically impossible. You'll have to either dismiss or defer some or all of those animals and try again next turn.

So it's not weird that some battle actions require an animal to tilt and others don't? Nope. Like other abilities, some battle actions require an animal to tilt (ex. Prairie Dog), while others don't (ex. Gila Monster). The latter are usually limited to once a battle.

Can an animal in a pen use its ability? An animal's ability isn't available until it enters one of your field spaces.

Can an animal activate two different abilities or actions with one tilt? One tilt activates one ability. Choose wisely.

Can an ability modify one of my animal's traits below zero? Under no circumstance can a trait be lowered below a value of zero.

Do I always have to tilt an animal to use its ability? (Or one of its items' abilities?) It depends on the card. Cards which require an animal to tilt will clearly state it (ex. Sled Dog, Ice Weasel, Lasso). Otherwise you don't tilt the animal (ex. Cattle Prod, Cactus Wren, Dagobert).

Do I have to draw additional tricks that I'm entitled to if I don't want any more? No. For example, if you were entitled to two free tricks because you only flipped over one troop, you could draw none, one or two.

Do I have to let other players know how many cards are in my hand? NotB does not require you to admit how many cards you are holding. This is especially useful when someone is trying to account for your ability to boost a legend. Remember, under most conditions you must discard down to five cards in your hand at the end of your turn. If someone cheats and tries to hold onto more than five cards, then don't play NotB with them anymore.

What happens when I run out of troops or tricks? Can you reshuffle your deck? Once they're gone, they're gone. Running out of tricks makes winning tougher. Running out of troops makes winning impossible if you don't have enough left to fill your field.

Other questions? The publisher's website is www.eyelevelentertainment.com.

Variants

Once you are comfortable with the quick game, we strongly encourage you to move to the full game. There are a lot more opportunities for strategy, locations and humans in the three row game.

Here are some other variants to try:

Bare Bones

For an even quicker game, play without the trick decks. This is a nice way to just focus on the basic four actions (recruiting, moving, untilting and attacking).

Doubles

(Requires two additional decks.) Four players split into two teams. Each player should sit such that play alternates between the teams as it proceeds around the table. Whichever team fills one of their fields first wins!

Mix and match these sub-variants:

• Mirror, Mirror: Players on the same team must play decks from the same habitat.
• Limited Leadership: Only one leadership card can be in play per team at any time.
• Shared Tally: Team members share the same favor and fury tracking card.
• Extreme Doubles: Both team members must have a filled field at the same time to win.

King of the Hill

This can be a variant of the quick or full game. You win by occupying a central space between the two players' fields for a predetermined number of rounds.

The Hill is a common field space which can only be accessed from the FRONT ROW of each player's field. It should be considered to be immediately above the top-center space on each player's field. Players may not place locations on the Hill.

The Hill can only be attacked by animals in the front row which have vectors pointing towards the Hill.

To win, a player must move an animal into this space and keep it there for a certain number of full turns. (We recommend starting with two.)

Mix and match these sub-variants:

• Adrenaline: Animal on the Hill automatically untilts at the start of EACH player's round.
• Total Time: Your time on the Hill does not need to be consecutive. Each round that you begin on the Hill adds to any previous total.

Supply Line

In this significant departure for two players, you and your opponent share a common 5x3 field. Your back row is still considered to be the one closest to your pen. Your front row becomes the furthest row away containing your animals. This means that your front and back row can be the same row.

Your goal is to create an 'unbroken' line of untilted animals stretching from your back row to your opponent's back row (a.k.a. your supply line). To count as 'unbroken', an animal must have a vector pointing towards the next animal in the supply line.

Since the two armies are sharing the same field, there are some special considerations:

• Two animals may not occupy the same space in the field.
• You can only attack an animal in one of your vectors. Animals ally as normal.
• Humans can be played to the left of a row as normal. This raises the possibility of up to five humans allying with you. However, if your opponent already has a human in a row, you cannot put another one there.
• Locations can be played as normal. Opposing animals can move onto and use a location, unless the card has a habitat limitation.

Mix and match these sub-variants:

• Blockade: A player can also win if they occupy all three spaces of their opponent's back row.
• Stingy Locations: A player may only use a seized location if they are from that exact habitat (i.e. City).
• Human Limitations: Humans may only be assigned to a row where you presently have at least one animal.

Deck Building Rules

We've included two pre-built decks so you can get right into the action. Once you're comfortable with the game, you should customize the decks however you want.

We've included some extra cards to get you started. We also recommend picking up NotB: City vs. Suburb and NotB: Farm vs. Forest if you really want to customize your decks.

When you're ready to build a deck from scratch, here are the rules:

Limit	Maximum
Cards in a deck	70
Troop cards	35
Leadership cards (any type)	3
Any other individual card	3

Just like a boat, a deck needs a good name. Come up with a cool name like, 'Horror on the Range' or 'Ice to Meet You' and watch your opponent wet himself in unadulterated fear.

Changes from the First Edition

Old fans, did you catch all the changes?

• Leader cards are now known as leadership cards to help distinguish them from legends.
• The Rush game has been renamed as the Quick game.
• Dark Nature cards are now indicated with black turn icons, as opposed to text in the ability area.
• Battle actions are now indicated by the explosion around the turn icon as opposed to text in the ability area.
• Layout overhaul on all cards to help distinguish them from each other.