Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World
Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World Rulebook
Table of Contents
Table of Contents
Master & Commander (Basic Game)
Quick Start Rules
For two to four players.
- Ships move according to wind direction.
- Upwind: move one square.
- Downwind: move three squares.
- On a reach: move five squares.
- Sink your opponents through engagements.
- Roll dice according to ship strength. If the attacking ship rolls the higher number, a hit is made.
- Ships must be broadside to attack.
- Each time a ship is hit, remove one Prize Disk. Three hits and you're sunk!
- Repair damaged ships.
- Trade Repair cards for Prize Disks.
- Winning: Be the last Captain with a ship under sail.
Game Components
Sea Chest: Your sea chest contains the following:
- Playing Map: Cloth game surface designed in grid fashion. There are four Homeports (North, South, East and West) on the map, one in each corner.
- Four pairs of ships: Each player commands two ships of the same color. Note: The bands on the ships are to differentiate the ships if playing the beginner's game, The Far Side of the World. In basic and advanced play, players will command two black ships, two copper ships, two silver ships or two gold ships.
- Six standard dice: The dice are used for movement during a storm and for attacking and defending ships.
- One Wind Die: This die determines from which direction the wind is blowing. If an N is rolled, then the wind is blowing from a Northerly direction. The wind, in turn, determines the movement of the ships.
- Hour Glass: The wind blows in the direction indicated on the wind die until all the sand runs through the hourglass. Turn the three-minute hourglass over after each roll of the Wind Die. When the sand has run through, the next player to move rolls the Wind Die and turns over the hourglass before taking his or her turn.
- 20 Magnetic Prize Disks: Two magnets are placed on the bottom of each ship to begin the game. The disks represent the strength of the ship; as the ships are hit by enemy fire, the disks are removed. There are four extra Prize Disks in your Sea Chest.
- 16 Repair Cards: Four Repair Cards are placed at each Homeport at the beginning of each game.
- 52 Master and Commander cards: These are used only in Advanced Play. Set them aside for all other games.
Rules
Object: You, as Captain of a fleet of warships, have been called to battle! Your goal is to defeat all other captains. To win, be the last Captain of a ship under sail.
Setting Sail (Initial Set Up): Each player chooses two ships of the same color. Place two Prize Disks on the bottom of each ship and place both of your ships (your fleet) at the Homeport nearest you. (See illustration 1a.) Each player also receives four Repair Cards, which should be placed next to their Homeport for later use.
[Illustration 1a]
Ship Movement: To determine who starts play, each player throws one die. The player with the highest roll goes first. Turn passes to the left.
Players move around the board from square to square either horizontally or vertically. Corner crossing, or moving diagonally across a square is not allowed. (See illustration 2a.)
Each turn consists of moving all of the ships in your fleet. Players do not roll dice to determine the movement of their ships. Rather, the number of spaces a ship may move is determined solely upon that ship's direction in relationship to the wind as determined by the Wind Die at the beginning of the player's turn.
A ship facing upwind at the beginning of a turn may move only one space. A ship is facing upwind if its bow (front) is facing the direction from which the wind is coming. For example, if the wind is blowing in a northerly direction (from the north) and the front of the ship is facing into the wind (or towards the N on the map) that ship may only move one space.
A ship facing downwind at the beginning of a turn may move three spaces. A ship is facing downwind if the wind is coming from behind. If the wind is blowing westerly and the front of the ship is pointing east (or towards the E on the map), then the wind is behind the ship (downwind) and the ship may move three spaces.
[Illustration 2a]
A ship on a reach (at 90 degrees to the wind, or across the wind) may move five spaces. If the wind is coming from the south and the ship is pointing either to the east or the west, the ship is on a reach and can move five spaces.
Remember, players move both ships independently during a single turn. A player does not have to move all spaces. For example, a player may choose not to move one ship at all even though they begin the turn on a reach and ordinarily could move five spaces. Hint: This would be a good strategy if an enemy ship is broadside to you, but out of firing range. You shouldn't sail into dangerous waters!
[Illustration 3a]
On your initial turn, if the wind is blowing from the south and your ships are sailing out of the west Homeport, you can move both ships five squares. If you are sailing out of the north Homeport, your ships can only move one square each. This rule of movement continues throughout the game.
A ship does not have to move forward to begin a turn, but must always follow its bow when moving. In other words, the ship cannot move backwards or sideways. A player may turn his or her ship 90 degrees within a square, but this counts as moving one square. (See illustration 3a.) After turning 90 degrees, a ship must move forward one square before turning again, unless it is obstructed by land or another ship. In that case, a ship may turn 90 degrees, turn another 90 degrees and then move forward.
A ship cannot sail across land, but your ship can sail across a square that contains a small, unnamed island. (See illustration 4a.)
[Illustration 4a]
Wind and Hourglass: Wind direction is determined by rolling the Wind Die. Each wind direction is represented: N (northerly), S (southerly), E (easterly), and W (westerly). On the fifth side there is a Storm Icon, on the sixth is the word Steady. (See illustration 5a.)
If you roll an N, the wind is blowing from the north to the south (a northerly wind). If an E is rolled the wind is blowing from the east to the west (an easterly wind) and so on.
[Illustration 5a]
Once the wind direction has been determined, the hourglass is turned over. Each time the hourglass is emptied, the player who will be taking the next turn changes the wind direction by rolling the Wind Die. The wind continues to blow through all moves and attacks – do not pause the wind during game play. If the hourglass empties in the middle of a player's turn, the wind remains the same until this player has finished his or her turn. The next player will then roll the Wind Die and turn over the hourglass before beginning his or her turn.
We recommend that the die and the overturned hourglass be placed near the corner from which the wind is coming. For example, if a player rolls a southerly wind, place the die and the hourglass near the S icon on the map so players remember which way the wind is blowing.
When there is a Steady on the Wind Die, the wind direction remains the same. For example, if the prior wind was northerly (N), and the next player rolls a Steady then the wind remains northerly (N). Again, so players can remember which way the wind is blowing, we recommend that the die be turned to N and kept near the N icon on the map.
[Illustration 6a]
When a roll produces the Storm Icon, play gets fun and furious! During a storm, the Wind Die does not determine movement. Instead, each player determines movement on his or her turn by rolling one of the standard pipped die. (See illustration 6a.)
For example, during a Storm, you roll a six with one of the die. You may move your ships a maximum of six spaces each. The next player will then roll the standard die and move his or her fleet according to the roll. Players roll standard die until the wind changes.
Engagements (Attack and Defend): A ship may fire on an enemy when: (a) the ship is broadside to an enemy ship, and (b) the ship is in an adjacent square or one square away. Broadside means that the side of the attacking ship (and, therefore, its side-mounted cannons) is facing the attacked ship. (See illustrations 7a, 7b, 7c, and 7d.) If either the front (bow) of back (stern) of a ship is pointing at an enemy, the ship cannot fire.
[Illustrations 7a and 7b]
Before attacking an enemy ship, you should declare your intent, and then roll the standard dice against the captain of the enemy ship. A ship can fire from both sides. If your ship is in position to fire upon more than one enemy ship, you must announce which ship you are going to attack first.
To attack, you will roll one, two or three dice depending upon the strength of your ship. An undamaged ship will have both magnetic Prize Disks and is considered to be at full strength; this ship will roll three dice in attack or defense. A ship that has suffered one hit, will only have one Prize Disk and can only roll two dice in attack or defense. A ship that has suffered two hits and has no Prize Disks left can only roll one die in attack or defense. A ship can take three hits before it is sunk.
[Illustrations 7c and 7d]
A hit is made if the high die of the attacker exceeds the high die of the defender. If the attacker's die is higher, the defender's ship has been hit and the captain must give up one Prize Disk. The captain of the ship that has been hit will roll one less die during his or her next engagement. Place the discarded Prize Disks to one side; they may be reclaimed through the use of Repair Cards (see below). If the defending captain's dice is higher, then he or she has successfully defended the ship under attack and turn passes to the next player. (See illustration 8a, 8b, and 8c.)
[Illustration 8a]
Result: Sixes tie, move to second highest dice rolls. Five beats four so attack is successful and a hit is scored!
[Illustration 8b]
Result: Fives tie, move to second highest dice rolls. Four beats three. Attack is repelled.
[Illustration 8c]
Result: Attack is repelled because defense roll of six beats all of the attacker's highest rolls.
In the case of a tie with all dice, then the defender is successful and no hit is scored.
When only one ship is broadside to another ship's bow or stern the engagement consists of an attack and defense. (See illustration 9a.) However, if both ships in an engagement are broadside to one another, the defending ship is allowed an opportunity to counter-attack his enemy immediately following completion of the initial attack and defense. (See illustration 10a.)
[Illustration 9a]
Repair Cards: A damaged ship can seek repairs at his/her Homeport or at sea. Homeport repairs require a permanent exchange of one Repair Card for one Prize Disk. Sea repairs are more difficult and therefore require an exchange of two Repair Cards for each Prize Disk recovered. To repair at sea, a captain must sail to one of the anchor icons.
A player seeking repair takes a Prize Disk that has been set aside and places it on the bottom of the repaired ship. Exchanged Repair Cards are eliminated from play.
Beware! A ship being repaired in Homeport or at sea may be fired upon and may return fire if they are broadside to an enemy.
A player may stay in Homeport on consecutive turns to further repair the ship.
[Illustration 10a]
Winning: Be the last player with a ship under sail.
The Far Side of the World (Beginner's Game)
Quick Start Rules
For up to eight players.
- Ships move according to the roll of a die.
- Roll the die and move your ship that number of squares.
- Sink your opponents through engagements.
- Each player involved in the engagement rolls one die. If the attacking ship rolls the higher number, a hit is made.
- Ships must be broadside to attack.
- Each time a ship is hit, remove one Prize Disk. Three hits and you're sunk!
- Winning: Be the last Captain with a ship under sail.
Game Components
Equipment:
- Playing Map: Cloth game surface designed in grid fashion. There are four Homeports (North, South, East and West) on the map, one in each corner. Ships set sail from one of the anchors or one of the Homeports on the board.
- Eight Ships: Each player commands one ship. There are two of each basic color ship (black, silver, gold and bronze). One of each color ship has a different color band around the base so that up to eight players can play at once.
- Standard Dice: Players roll one die to determine ship movement. When attacking enemy ships, each player needs one die.
- 20 Magnetic Prize Disks: Two magnets are placed on the bottom of each ship to begin the game. The disks represent the strength of the ship; as the ships are hit by enemy fire, the disks are removed. There are four extra Prize Disks in your Sea Chest.
Rules
Object: Your goal is to defeat all other captains by sinking their ships. To win, be the last captain of a ship under sail.
Setting Sail (Initial Set Up): Choose the ship that you want to command. Place two Prize Disks on the bottom of your ship and place your ship at the Homeport nearest you or on one of the anchor symbols near the center of the board.
[Illustration 3a]
Ship Movement: To determine who starts play, each player rolls one die. The player with the highest roll goes first. Turn passes to the left.
On each turn roll the die and move your ship the number of squares that you rolled. You may move your ship horizontally or vertically, but not diagonally. Ships must move forward (follow their bow). You may change your direction by turning to the left or the right (90 degrees) within a square, but that counts as moving one square. (See illustration 3a.)
A ship cannot sail across land, but your ship can sail across a square that contains a small, unnamed island. (See illustration 4a.)
[Illustration 4a]
Engagements: To attack, you must be in a square next to the enemy you wish to fire upon and your ship must be broadside to that ship. Broadside means that the side of the attacking ship must face the ship you are attacking. If either the front (bow) or back (stern) of a ship is pointing at an enemy, the ship cannot fire.
Before attacking an enemy ship, you should declare your intent, and then roll the dice. During attacks one die per person should be used and you and your opponent must roll the dice at the same time. If your number is higher than your opponent's, then your attack is successful and the captain must give up one Prize Disk. Place the Prize Disk to one side. If the defending captain's number is higher, then he or she successfully defended the ship under attack and does not need to remove a Prize Disk.
If both ships in an engagement are broadside to one another, the defending ship is allowed an opportunity to counter-attack his enemy immediately following completion of the initial attack and defense. Simply roll both dice again.
The Prize Disks help you keep track of how many hits your ship has taken. If your ship has taken two hits, both Prize Disks will be removed. It can take one more hit before sinking. After the last hit, lie your ship on its side or remove it from the playing map.
Winning: Be the last player with a ship under sail.
Age of Fighting Sail (Advanced Game)
Quick Start Rules
For two to four players. Add one or more of the following rules to the basic Master and Commander game.
Master and Commander Cards: Draw a Master and Commander card when you initiate an engagement. Follow your fate as told by the card.
Boarding a Ship: If your ship is undamaged, roll three dice against an adjacent, weakened enemy. If all your dice are higher than your enemy's highest dice, you may board that ship and take command.
Raids: Attack an enemy Homeport in the same manner as you would attack a ship. The prize for a successful raid is a Repair Card.
Ramming: If an attacking ship is in front of your bow, you may wish to ram that ship after the attack is completed. If you roll a six, you've successfully rammed the enemy. Roll again to determine the damage.
Mist: Hide from enemy fire in the Mist. Lose one turn.
Winning: Be the last Captain with a ship under sail.
Game Components
The Age of Fighting Sail variation of the game is recommended for more experienced players who have become familiar with the basic game. Choose one or all of the following rules to add more challenge and length to the basic Master and Commander game.
Master and Commander Cards: Master and Commander Cards add an element of chance to the game – your fate will change as a result of your draw. Set the pile of cards on the designated spot on the playing map. Each time you initiate an engagement, you must draw a Master and Commander card first. Read the card aloud and follow your fate as told by the card. Some cards do not have an immediate impact and should be kept until they apply. Other cards should be used immediately. Once used, place the card at the bottom of the pile.
Rules
Boarding a ship: In lieu of firing upon an enemy ship during an engagement, an attacking captain may choose to board the enemy vessel and take command of that ship. To board an enemy ship all of the following conditions must be met:
- The attacking ship must be at full strength.
- The ship being attacked cannot be at full-strength.
- The attacking ship is in a square immediately adjacent to the enemy ship.
- The attacking ship is either broadside to broadside, or broadside to bow. (See illustrations 11a & 11b.)
[Illustrations 11a and 11b]
The intent to board must be declared prior to rolling. To board, every die rolled by the attacking ship must exceed the highest die rolled by the defending ship. If successful, the attacking captain takes command of the boarded ship and adds this to his or her fleet. This ship may then be moved along with each of the boarding captain's other ships.
If boarding is unsuccessful, game play continues. Before moving to the next player's turn, however, the defending ship may fire back if it is in a position to do so.
Raids on Homeports: Attacks on enemy Homeports are much the same as an attack on a ship. An attacking ship must be broadside to an enemy Homeport and roll as many dice as their damage allows. Homeports, because they are more secure, always roll three dice.
If an attack on an enemy Homeport is successful, the Homeport loses one Repair Card to the attacker; the attacker places the Repair Card at his Homeport. Repair Cards are very valuable!
A Homeport may counter attack a ship, but if they are successful they do not receive a Prize Disk; instead the invading ship is simply repelled and must leave the Homeport without further attack. A repelled invader cannot return until it has engaged an opposing ship or another enemy Homeport.
A ship may continue attacking an enemy Homeport on consecutive turns until it is repelled.
Ramming: If an attacking ship has pulled broadside immediately in front of another ship's bow, the defending ship may wish to attempt a ram. (See illustration 12a.)
After the captain has completed his or her attack, the defending ship's captain will roll one of the standard die. If the roll is a six, a ram has occurred. The player will then roll the die again to access damage to the rammed ship. If the player rolls a one or a two there is no damage. If a three or four is rolled, the opposing player must relinquish one Prize Disk. If a five or six is rolled the opposing player must relinquish two Prize Disks. A ship may be sunk by ramming.
[Illustration 12a]
Mist: There are two permanent Mists located on the map. A player may enter the Mist from any direction and is safe from enemy fire while in any of the five squares where the letters M I S T are located. A player entering the mist must lose one turn before exiting. After losing one turn, a player must exit the Mist.
Winning: Just like in basic game play, be the last player with a ship under sail.
Glossary
Abeam: At right angles to the center of the boat.
Beat to quarters: A naval ceremony stemming from the 17th Century when a drum roll, or the beating of drums, was carried out in warships to signify a call to arms when an enemy ship had been sighted.
Bow: Forward end of a boat or ship.
Bow chaser: A cannon (gun) off the front of the boat.
Broadside: 1) Side of a ship above the water; 2) firing of all guns from one side of a ship.
Carronades: A short cannon developed by a Scottish ironworks (Carron) in 1778. They were designed primarily for use in confined spaces in order to fire heavy shot at close quarters. They were half the weight of an equivalent long gun, which was their primary advantage. Their shorter barrel and smaller charge meant that their effective range was very short. The carronade was mounted on a sliding carriage with ropes to restrain the recoil.
Chain shot: Two cannon balls connected together with either a chain or an iron bar, used to destroy the rigging and sails of other ships.
Cut-water: The foremost part of a vessel's prow, which projects forward of the bows.
Detachment of Marines: A small unit of sailors assigned as part of the ship's compliment to provide guard duties, operate the brig, provide orderlies to senior officers and man one or more of the guns on board.
Doldrums: Originally, a belt of calm winds, sudden storms and waters on either side of the equator. Sailing ships would often languish in the doldrums waiting for a good wind to get them moving again. Time spent in the doldrums was often depressing and boring so the word evolved to mean low spirits or depressed.
Downwind: Wind is coming from behind.
Easterly: Wind is from the East, heading to the West.
Eighteen-pounders: A type of cannon.
Engagement: Battle or conflict.
Fathoms: Measurement of six feet.
Figurehead: Carved figure on the front of the ship, over the cut-water.
Frigate: After the 18th century, a term for a single-decked ship, or rather, a single gun ship with an upper, or "weather" deck.
Grapeshot: A type of cannon shot in which small balls were contained in a canvas bag and then fired from the cannon. This type of shot was particularly deadly.
Grog: Watered down rum. In 1740, Admiral Edward Vernon, who was in the practice of wearing clothes made out of a material called grogham (or groggin), ordered rum rations aboard British ships to be cut with water.
Jolly boats: Small boats, usually hoisted at the stern of a ship.
Lead line: A line with a weight on the end used to measure depth. The lead is dropped into the water and marks on the line are read to determine the current water depth.
Mizzenmast: The aftermost mast of a ship.
Moor: To tie or fasten.
Mooring: An arrangement for securing a ship to a buoy or a pier.
Nine-pounders: A type of cannon.
Northerly: Wind is from the North, heading to the South.
Powder monkey: A crewmember who carries or sets explosives.
Ratlines: Lines running across the shrouds, horizontally, like the rounds of a ladder, and used to step upon in going aloft. (Pronounced rat-lins)
Reach: To sail with the wind.
Ship of the line: Most European nations divided their principal warships into "rates," according to the number of guns they carried. Carronades were never included in the number. The first rate ships carried 100 guns or more on two or more decks; 2nd rates carried 90 to 100 guns; 3rd rates carried anywhere from 70 to 90 guns. These first three rates were recognized as "Ships Of The Line," which meant that they were ships with weapons powerful enough to be able to form up in the line of battle during a naval engagement.
Southerly: Wind is from the South, heading to the North.
Stern: Rear part of a ship or vessel.
Stern gun: Cannon (gun) at the back of the ship.
Take her a prize: A term meaning capture the ship.
Upwind: Ship's bow (front) is facing the direction from which the wind is coming.
Weather-gauge: A vessel has the weather gage of another when she is to windward of her.
Westerly: Wind is from the West, heading to the East.
Whaler: 1) a seaman who works on a ship that hunts whales; 2) a ship engaged in whale fishing.
Windward: Upwind.