Legendary Encounters: A Predator Deck Building Game Rulebook

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

• Sorting Guide
• Your First Game - Use These Cards
• Playing as Humans
  • Game Setup
  • On Your Turn
  • Recruiting Characters, Scanning Rooms, and Fighting Enemies
  • Strike Phase: Each Enemy in the Combat Zone Strikes
  • Cleanup Phase: Discard Your Hand and Draw Six New Cards
  • Completing Objectives
  • Two Ways to Win
• Keyword Abilities on Characters
• Additional Rules
• Character Classes
• Adjusting Difficulty
• Scoring
• Playing Through the Movies
• Combining Predator™ with Aliens™
• Playing as Predators
  • Game Setup
  • On Your Turn
  • Strike Phase: Each Prey in the Combat Zone Strikes
  • Ending the Game
  • Tests and Challenges
  • Keyword Abilities on Prey
  • Solo Play
  • Adjusting Difficulty
  • Playing Cooperatively
  • Playing Through the Movies
• Hunting Aliens
  • Updated Objectives and Locations
• Game Contents
• Credits
• Quick Reference Guide

Sorting Guide

You'll find 700 cards in addition to the Game Mat. Here are some suggestions on how to initially sort your cards.

First, sort the cards into three groups: Starting cards, Hunter cards, and Hunted cards. You will use the same Starting Cards in both game modes, but you will never mix Hunter cards with Hunted cards. Starting cards are called Experience and Brute Strength. There are 60 of these.

Hunter cards come in many varieties, but they all have special green lettering either in their name or in the Deck Label at the bottom of the card. There are 360 of these. The remaining cards are for playing as the Hunted. There are 280 of these.

Next, organize the Hunter cards into the following groups:

• 60 cards labeled Prey Strike
• 24 cards labeled Mercenary
• 20 cards labeled Trap
• 20 cards labeled Test
• 20 cards labeled Challenge
• 20 cards labeled Gear
• 8 cards labeled Killer Instinct
• 5 cards labeled Avatar
• 5 cards labeled Role
• 6 Prey Mini-Decks with the following labels:
  • 9 cards labeled No Sport - 1
  • 11 cards labeled Payback Time – 2
  • 13 cards labeled What the Hell Are You? - 3
  • 9 cards labeled Drawn By Heat and Conflict - 1
  • 11 cards labeled This is History – 2
  • 13 cards labeled A Taste for Beef – 3
• 8 Character card pools with the following labels (each has 14 cards):
  • Woodland – Intel
  • Woodland – Strength
  • Woodland – Survival
  • Woodland – Tech
  • Urban – Intel
  • Urban – Strength
  • Urban – Survival
  • Urban – Tech

Finally, organize the Hunted cards into the following groups:

• 40 cards labeled Enemy Strike
• 24 cards labeled Young Blood
• 10 cards labeled Avatar
• 10 cards labeled Role
• 10 cards labeled Commander
• 2 cards labeled Location
• 6 cards labeled Objective
• 6 Enemy Mini-Decks with the following labels:
  • 9 cards labeled Expendable Assets - 1
  • 11 cards labeled Flares, Frags, and Claymores – 2
  • 13 cards labeled Get to the Choppa! - 3
  • 9 cards labeled War Zone - 1
  • 11 cards labeled Personal Little War – 2
  • 13 cards labeled Other-world Life-form – 3
• 8 Character card pools with the following labels (each has 14 cards):
  • Blain
  • Dillon
  • Dutch
  • Mac
  • Danny
  • Harrigan
  • Keyes
  • Lambert

Your First Game - Use These Cards

• Location: The Val Verdean Jungle
• Objective 1/Enemy Deck 1: "Expendable Assets"
• Objective 2/Enemy Deck 2: "Flares, Frags, and Claymores"
• Objective 3/Enemy Deck 3: "Get to the Choppa!"
• Characters: Blain, Dillon, Dutch, Mac (Note: All of these characters have the Predator icon.)
• Player Roles: Lieutenant, Tracker, Guerilla, CIA Agent, Radioman (In a four player game, leave out the Radioman. In a three player game, leave out the CIA Agent and Radioman, etc.)

Playing as Humans

Game Setup

Player Cards

Note: If you've played Legendary® Encounters: An Alien™ Deck Building game, many of these rules are the same. But be sure to check out the Young Blood chart, the section called Two Ways to Win, and the new Keywords.

Give each player their own personal 12-card deck made up of these Character cards:

• 7 Experience
• 5 Brute Strength

Each player then selects one of the ten Roles and takes the appropriate Avatar and Role card. (You can choose which ones you like or randomly deal out the Avatars.)

The Avatar stays in front of each player during the game.

• Your Health determines how much strike damage it takes to kill you.
• Your Avatar also determines which Role Character card you get. Each player should take that card and add it to their deck as a 13th card.
• Your Defense Value is only used to attack other players. (Normally, you won't want to do this, but when you mix the game with Aliens, you might find yourself playing against a Traitor or Alien Player.)

Game Stacks

Note: Only the Commander, Strikes, Location, Objective, Enemy, and Barracks spaces are used to set up the game. (Some spaces have two names. The top is playing as Hunters, the bottom is playing as Hunted.)

Shuffle the 10 Commander cards together and place that stack face down on its designated space on the board.

Shuffle the 40 Enemy Strike cards together and place that stack face down on its space on the board.

Location and Objectives

Pick one Location and put it on the Location space.

Objectives are marked as either "1", "2", or "3." Each game uses exactly one '1', one '2', and one '3' objective.

Pick a '1', a '2', and a '3' and place them on the Objective space with Objective 1 on the top and Objective 3 on the bottom. (Players have to complete Objectives in order, from Objective 1 to Objective 3.)

The Enemy Deck

Each of the Objectives you picked has a corresponding "mini-deck" of Enemy cards. The mini-decks are stacked on top of each other with Objective 1's mini-deck on the top and Objective 3's mini-deck on the bottom.

There are also 24 Young Blood cards which are randomly shuffled into the mini-decks depending on how many players there are. (See the Young Blood Chart.)

Here's how to build the Enemy deck:

• Find Objective 3's thirteen card mini-deck. Shuffle in the proper number of Young Bloods. Then, put that stack face down on the Enemy space on the board.
• Find Objective 2's eleven card mini-deck. Shuffle in the proper number of Young Bloods. Then, put that stack face down on top of Objective 3's mini-deck that's already on the Enemy space.
• Find Objective 1's nine card mini-deck. Shuffle in the proper number of Young Bloods. Then, put that stack face down on top of Objective 2's and Objective 3's mini-decks that are already stacked on the Enemy space.

So when you're done, you'll have one Enemy deck with the Objective 1 cards on the top and the Objective 3 cards on the bottom.

Note: Don't look at the Young Blood cards you shuffle in – it keeps things more suspenseful.

Young Blood Chart

Number of Players	Young Bloods in mini-deck 1	Young Bloods in mini-deck 2	Young Bloods in mini-deck 3	Special Rules
1	0	0	0
2	0	1	2
3	2	3	4
4	4	5	6
5	4	5	6	One Preparation Round*

*If you're playing five players, then each player gets one free "preparation" turn. Take those turns as normal except skip the Enemy Phase.

Some players enjoy playing solo but controlling two Avatars. In this case, use the 2 Player row in the Young Blood Chart.

Note: This chart should now also be used for putting Drones in the Hive deck when playing Legendary® Encounters: An Alien™ Deck Building Game and when combining the two games.

The Barracks

There are 8 different Characters in the game with 14 cards each. To build the Barracks, pick four Characters (at random or your choice) and shuffle all of those characters' 14 cards together for a total of 56 cards.

Starting the Game

• Put the top five cards of the Barracks into the five spaces of the Headquarters (HQ).
• Each player shuffles their own personal deck of 13 cards and draws a hand of 6 cards from it.
• Choose a player to go first. Players take turns in clockwise order.

On Your Turn

During your turn, complete the following phases in order:

1. Enemy Phase: Draw an Enemy card (keeping it face down) and add it to the Wilds.
2. Action Phase: Play cards from your hand, using them to recruit, scan, and fight.
3. Strike Phase: Each enemy in the Combat Zone strikes.
4. Cleanup Phase: Discard your hand and all cards played. Then draw six new cards.

Enemy Phase: Add an Enemy Card to the Wilds

At the beginning of your turn, without looking at it, put the top card of the Enemy deck face down into the closest space in the Wilds. Here comes the Predator!

Push Other Cards Forward If Necessary

Each of the five spaces in the Wilds can only hold one card. Whenever a card enters a space in the Wilds, if there's already another card there, the existing card gets pushed one space toward the Hills to make room for it. So a single card entering the Wilds sometimes causes several cards to get pushed forward.

• Remember: Only push a card forward if it needs to move to make room for another card entering that space.
• Cards move the same way whether they're face-down or face-up.

A Card Might Get Pushed to the Combat Zone

If a card is on the Hills space and gets pushed, it then leaves the Wilds and enters the Combat Zone. If it's face-down, then immediately turn it face up. (See pages 9-10 for what happens when a card turns face-up.)

The Combat Zone can hold any number of cards. Each time a new one is added, slide the existing ones over to the right.

Action Phase: Play cards from your hand, using them to recruit, scan, and fight.

Your deck is made up of Character cards. Here are the different parts of a character:

• Recruit Points: Use these to recruit more characters.
• Attack: Use this to scan spaces & kill enemies.
• Special Ability
• Cost: How many Recruit Points it costs to recruit this character.

After you add an Enemy card, you play cards from your hand. Some of your cards produce "Recruit Points" that let you recruit more characters. Other cards produce "Attack" that let you scan spaces and kill enemies. Some cards give you special abilities like drawing cards or healing.

• Play each card in your hand in any order, one at a time.
  • Each time you play a card, do what that card says immediately. (Some cards say "Once this turn," which means you can wait until a later point in the turn in order to use that effect.)
  • You get any Recruit Points listed in the Recruit icon on the card, but you don't have to use those Recruit Points right away.
  • You get any Attack listed in the Attack icon on the card, but you don't have to use that Attack right away.
  • Some cards say something like "2+" inside their Recruit or Attack icon. The "2" means that you always get at least 2 from that card. The "+" symbol means you might get more Recruit Points or Attack based on what the card says for its special ability.
• Keep the cards you play face up in front of you until the end of your turn.
• You don't have to play every card in your hand. Some cards are very powerful in the right circumstances but risky or even harmful in the wrong ones.

Class and Team Abilities

• Some characters have an ability with a Class Icon and a colon, like [Class]: You get +3 Attack.
  • You can only use a Class ability if you've already played another card of that class earlier in your turn.
  • A card's class is shown with the class icon on the card's upper left and also in the color of the card's border.
  • You can only use a card's Class ability once even if you played two or more cards of the required class earlier in the turn.
• Some characters have an ability with a Team Icon such as the human icon or the Predator icon.
  • These work the same way as Class abilities.
  • A card's Team icon is on the card's upper left hand corner.

Example of a Class Ability:

• "The Door Swings Both Ways" always gives you 2 Recruit Points when you play it.
• If you have already played another Tech card earlier in the turn, then you can use the Class ability on "The Door Swings Both Ways" to discard and then draw cards.
• If you play two copies of "The Door Swings Both Ways" as your first two cards of the turn, then you won't get to use the Class ability of the first one, but you will get to use it on the second one.

Recruiting Characters, Scanning Rooms, and Fighting Enemies

In-between playing cards from your hand or after you've played all of your cards, you can recruit any number of characters, scan any number of rooms, and fight any number of enemies. You can do any or all of that as many times as you're able and in any order.

How to Recruit a Character

The HQ section of the board has five spaces, each of which contains exactly one face-up character from the Barracks.

To recruit a character from the HQ, spend Recruit Points equal to that character's cost (found on its bottom right corner) and then put it into your discard pile. When your deck runs out and you shuffle your discard pile to make a new deck, you will soon draw that new character and be able to use its abilities.

Whenever there is an empty space in the HQ for any reason, immediately refill it with the top card of the Barracks face up. For example, you might recruit a character, see what new character appears in its place, and then recruit that new character if you have enough Recruit Points.

You can also recruit a Commander from the Commander stack. To do so, spend 3 Recruit Points and put the top card of the Commander stack into your discard pile. Commanders always cost 3 Recruit Points, and there are Commanders for each of the five character classes. (You won't know which one you will get until you recruit it.) Besides being different classes, Commanders are identical.

Some special abilities instruct you to "gain" a character. Whenever you gain a character, unless the effect says otherwise, it goes to your discard pile.

How to Scan a Space

During the game, there will be hidden (face-down) cards in the Wilds. It's usually a good idea to scan those cards in order to turn them face up. That way, if you find a Predator card, you can try to kill it before it moves into the Combat Zone and starts striking you.

Each of the five spaces in the Wilds has a Scan Cost. To scan a space that has a hidden card, spend Attack equal to that space's Scan Cost. Then, turn the hidden card face up.

There are also special abilities in the game that let you scan a space. In those cases, you don't have to pay the Scan Cost to scan the space.

Turning a Hidden Card Face Up

A hidden card turns face up when its space is scanned or when it enters the Combat Zone. Depending on what kind of card it is, different things happen when it's turned face up.

Revealing an Enemy

Enemies make up the majority of the cards in the Wilds. They might be human, guerrillas or gang members, or Predator cards.

When an enemy is revealed, it stays where it is and continues to move through the Wilds the same way a face-down card moves.

Some enemies have "Reveal" abilities. When an enemy is turned face up, its Reveal ability triggers once, and then can be ignored afterwards.

Revealing an Event

Each Objective card has an Event ability. When an Event card is revealed, follow the Event ability located on the current Objective, and then put the Event card into the Discarded Hazards/Events space.

At the beginning of the game you'll be on Objective 1 so when you reveal an Event card it will trigger the ability on that objective. Later in the game, after you've completed Objective 1, you'll be on Objective 2, so any Event cards that get revealed will trigger the Event on Objective 2. And if you make it to Objective 3, Event cards will trigger the Event on Objective 3. (See Completing Objectives on Page 11 for more info on Events)

Revealing a Hazard

Each Location card has three Hazard abilities numbered 1, 2, and 3. The first time you reveal a Hazard card in the game, it triggers the first Hazard ability on the location. The second time you reveal a Hazard card, it triggers the second ability on the location. The third time you reveal a Hazard, it triggers the third ability on the location.

Marks

Each Hazard card becomes a Mark on the player who revealed it. This means the Predator is paying special attention to that player. A player can be marked multiple times, and many effects refer to marked players. Marks last the whole game unless an effect removes one.

Revealing a Goal or Special Card

Sometimes you'll find a Goal or Special card. These cards will always have Reveal abilities that tell you what to do.

How to Fight an Enemy

Once an enemy has been turned face up, you can fight it. You can fight any number of enemies, one at a time, that are in either the Wilds or the Combat Zone. To fight an enemy, spend Attack equal to that enemy's Attack value in order to kill it. Then, put that card onto the Dead Prey/Enemies space on the board.

You can only fight an enemy if you have enough Attack to kill it. If somehow an enemy has 0 Health, it will die immediately when you attack it.

After you kill an enemy, if you have more Attack leftover, you can use it to scan rooms and/or fight more enemies.

Some enemies have a "Death" ability. When that enemy dies, follow the instructions of its Death ability.

You'll notice that most Predator enemy cards have names and art themed around one of its equipment or other characteristics. This represents which tactic the Predator is using against you. When you kill that card, you're not really killing the Predator; instead, you're just driving it off temporarily.

Strike Phase: Each Enemy in the Combat Zone Strikes

From right to left, each enemy in the Combat Zone strikes you, one at a time. When an enemy strikes, you must draw a card from the Strike Deck.

Most strikes have a damage number. Put those strikes next to your Avatar. If you ever have damage greater than or equal to your Avatar's health, then you have died and are out of the game. You must remove all of your cards from the game. It's now up to your teammates to avenge you!

Some strikes have additional effects, some do nasty things instead of causing damage, and a few are "Close Calls" (which don't hurt at all).

Some enemies have abilities that let them strike outside of the Strike Phase. This works just like when an enemy strikes during the Strike Phase – you draw a strike.

Fortunately, some effects allow you to heal strikes. When a strike is healed or otherwise discarded, put it into the Discarded Strikes space on the board.

Some enemies have a Strike ability. Whenever these enemies strike you after you drew a strike card, follow the instructions of their abilities.

Some effects allow you to "Avoid" a strike. In that case, you don't draw the strike card. If you avoid the strike of an enemy with a Strike special ability, then you don't follow the instructions of the ability.

Cleanup Phase: Discard Your Hand and Draw Six New Cards

• At the end of your turn, put all the cards you played this turn into your discard pile. Also, discard any cards in your hand that you didn't play this turn. (You can look through your discard pile at any time to see what's in there.)
• Then, draw six new cards from your deck.
• If you don't have enough cards left in your deck and you still need to draw more, then shuffle your discard pile to form a new deck. Then draw the rest of the cards you need.
• Don't shuffle your discard pile into a new deck until your deck has completely run out AND you still need to draw or reveal more cards from your deck. (Sometimes this can lead to your deck being temporarily empty.)

Completing Objectives

There are many different types of Objectives. Some require you to find and reveal certain cards. Some require you to attach special cards to a space in the Wilds. And some require you to kill a specific enemy.

The players can only be on one Objective at a time. Whenever an Objective is completed, immediately put it on the bottom of the three Objective cards. Players can then work toward completing the next Objective.

Players must always complete Objective 1 before they can complete Objective 2 and must complete Objective 2 before they can complete Objective 3. When the third Objective is completed, the game is over and the players have won.

On your first time playing with an Objective, it might not be immediately clear how to complete it. However, you'll always be able to figure it out as you make your way through the Enemy deck.

Objective Goal Cards

Some Objectives require you to do something with cards you'll find in the Enemy deck. These cards are marked as a "Goal" for Objective 1, 2, or 3. If one of these cards has an ability that allows you to do something, you can only use the ability if you're on the proper Objective.

If a card instructs you to "complete the objective," but you haven't yet completed the previous one, then ignore that effect until you do complete the previous one.

Two Ways to Win

Once you reach Objective 3, you can win by killing the Predator himself. He's labeled as "Final Enemy" and you can only fight him once you've completed Objective 2. (If you haven't completed Objective 2 yet when he shows up, then you're probably in trouble.) Killing the Final Enemy is a Major Victory.

Each Objective 3 mini-deck also has an alternate way to win. These are labeled as "Minor Goal," and they allow you to win a Minor Victory. It's worse than killing the Predator, but better than dying.

Example of coordinating: It's Player A's turn. Player B decides to Coordinate the "The Speech" card. Player B sets aside the card face up, draws a replacement card, and tells Player A they are coordinating with them. Player C decides to Coordinate as well. Player C sets aside "Commander," draws a replacement card, and tells Player A they are coordinating with them.

Player A now copies both of the Coordinate cards, gaining 1 Attack from the first one and 2 Recruit Points from the second. Even better, because "The Speech" is a Leadership card, which allows him to trigger the class ability on his "Luck is My Specialty" card.

At the end of Player A's turn, the card Player B had coordinated goes to Player B's discard pile and the card Player C had coordinated goes to Player C's discard pile.

Keyword Abilities on Characters

There are several keyword abilities found on Characters:

Coordinate

Coordinating allows you to let another player "borrow" one of your cards. It is a critical way to help your teammates kill tough enemies. Many Barracks cards and all Commanders have Coordinate.

During another player's turn, you can Coordinate with them like this:

• Set aside a Coordinate card in your hand face up, and then immediately draw a new card to replace it. While it is set aside, it's considered "out of play."
• That player can now play a virtual copy of the card you coordinated with them. (See Copying a Card on Page 16)
• At the end of that player's turn, put the card you Coordinated into YOUR discard pile.

You can only Coordinate one card to each player on their turn. However, multiple players can each coordinate one card to the player whose turn it is in order to give that player a huge advantage.

When you Coordinate a card to a player, they can choose not to play a virtual copy of it. Either way, you still draw a replacement card.

Call for Backup

Each Role card has a Call for Backup ability that gives you a bonus for each time someone coordinates a card to you that turn. When you play a card with Call for Backup, you may activate its ability only once anytime on that turn. When you do, you get its special text once for each time someone has coordinated with you that turn.

For example, it's Player A's turn. He plays "It Ain't No Man," but he doesn't activate its Call For Backup ability yet. Player B and C each coordinate a card to him. Player A activates his Call for Backup ability which triggers twice (once for each coordinated card) and reads "Once this turn, you may scan any space." So during this turn, Player A will be able to scan two spaces for free. (Note: It doesn't matter if someone coordinated a card to you before or after you played "It Ain't No Man." All that matters is if they coordinated with you before you activate its Call For Backup ability.)

Brothers in Arms

Anytime on the turn you've played a card with Brothers in Arms, you may activate its ability once. When you do, you get its special text one time for each Barracks character you've played this turn with a different name from the one on the Brothers in Arms card.

For example, Player A plays "Bad Idea" which is a Dutch card. He then plays another Dutch card, a Mac card, and two different Blain cards. He then activates "Bad Idea's" Brothers in Arms ability. Because "Bad Idea" is a Dutch card, he counts each character he's played other than Dutch. He has played Mac and Blain for a total of two. (The second Blain card doesn't help.) "Bad Idea's" Brothers in Arms ability grants +2 Attack so Player A will gain a total of +4 Attack (two for Mac and two for Blain). Because each Barracks includes only four different characters, the best you can get from a Brothers in Arms ability is its effect three times. If someone coordinates a barracks character you haven't played yet this turn, that can help your Brothers in Arms ability. (Note: Role cards and Commanders don't count toward Brothers in Arms.)

Showboat

Showboat works just like Brothers in Arms except for when you choose to activate it. Instead of counting each other character you've played that turn, you count each other card of the same character you played that turn.

For example, Player A plays "Now It's Personal" which is a Harrigan card. He then plays two other Harrigan cards that turn. Then, he activates the Showboat ability on Now It's Personal. Because he's played two other Harrigan cards that turn, the Showboat ability gives him +1 Attack twice.

There's no limit to how many times you can get a Showboat effect in one turn.

Note: If you play two copies of the same Showboat card, when you activate them, they will each "see" each other.

Abilities on Enemies

Enemy abilities will say when they happen. For example, some abilities are "Ongoing" which means it's always on. Some are only active while the enemy is in the Wilds. Some are only in a specific space while some are only in the Combat Zone.

If multiple enemy abilities trigger at the same time, resolve them in this order. Go from right to left in the Combat Zone. Then, go from left to right in the Wilds.

Some enemies also have keyword abilities:

Double Strike

During the Strike Phase, an enemy in the Combat Zone that has Double Strike will strike you twice, one at a time. You would have to avoid each of those strikes in order not to draw a Strike card.

Runner

At the end of the Enemy Phase, a Runner in the Wilds will move one space, pushing any card in that space as normal.

Additional Rules

"Your Characters"

If an effect refers to "your characters," this includes any character in your hand as well as any characters you've played this turn. The characters in your deck and discard pile do not count. Virtual copies of characters (such as a card that was coordinated to you) also do not count.

"Kill"

In addition to spending Attack to kill enemies, there are many effects that say to "kill" certain cards. Killed enemies go to the Dead Prey/Enemies space, and killed characters go to the Dead Characters space. And if somehow a Hazard or Event gets killed, put it into Discarded Hazards/Events space.

If a card says to kill "one of your characters," you can kill a character in your hand or one you've already played this turn. If you kill one you've already played this turn, you still get to use the Recruit Points, Attack, and special abilities the character produced, including "Once this turn" abilities. Killed characters also still count for the purposes of triggering another card's Class or Crew ability.

Killing starting cards (Experience and Brute Strength) can actually be good for you because it means you will draw your more powerful characters more often instead of those weaker ones. You can't kill a virtual card (i.e. a card someone coordinated to you).

"Gaining" Cards

Whenever you gain a card, put it into your discard pile. After you shuffle your deck, you'll be able to draw that new card.

Running Out of Cards in the Enemy Deck

Sometimes the Enemy deck will run out while the players are struggling to defeat the Final Enemy. If you need to add an Enemy card and the deck is empty, then take all of the dead Enemies and shuffle them together to make a new Enemy deck. (Do not shuffle in any discarded Events, Hazards, Goals, or Special cards. Shuffle in only Enemies.)

In the unlikely event that the Enemy deck runs out a second time, your time is up, and the Predator kills everyone. (As stated above, this happens when you need to add an Enemy card, but there isn't one left.)

Running Out of Cards in the Barracks

If the Barracks runs out, keep playing normally except that the HQ will no longer refill. Once there are no longer cards in the HQ, you will no longer be able to recruit characters (other than Commanders).

Running Out of Cards in the Commander Stack

If this stack runs out, keep playing normally except that you will no longer be able to recruit Commanders.

Running Out of Cards in the Strike Deck

When this deck runs out, immediately shuffle all of the discarded strikes to make a new Strike Deck. If a player is killed, their strikes go to the discarded strike pile.

Special Abilities On Cards

• Cards can override the rules of the game.
• If one card says you can't do something while another tells you to do it, "can't" beats "can."
• If a card tells you to do something, but you can't do all of it, then do as much as you can. For example, if a card tells you to discard two cards from your hand, but you only have one card, then just discard the one card.
• If a card requires a choice, but it's not clear who should make the choice, then the player whose turn it is makes the choice.
• If a card instructs "you" to do something, but you're not sure to whom it refers, it refers to the player whose turn it is.

"Show" a Card

This just means to show the other players that you have a particular card in your hand or in play in front of you. You don't have to play or discard the card.

"Once this turn"

Most card abilities take place immediately when you play the card. However, some say "Once this turn" which means that you can choose to use that ability later on during your Action Phase instead of right away. However, once you get to the Strike Phase part of the turn it's too late to use it.

"Avoid any one Strike"

If you get to Avoid any one Strike, you can skip drawing a strike once during that turn. It could be from an Enemy striking during the Strike Phase or another effect like an Event. If you choose to avoid a strike from an enemy with a Strike special ability, then that special ability won't occur.

"Cancel a Strike"

Some strike cards give you a chance to cancel them after you've drawn them before they take effect. When you cancel a strike, discard it, and it's like the strike never happened.

"Next Player"

Some effects refer to the next player. Usually this means the player who is next to act. However, if there's only one player left in the game (whether because you're playing solo or because everyone else is dead), then "next player" refers to you. For example, if an effect says "you and the next player each draw a strike," you would draw two strikes.

Enemy gets -1 Health

Some effects reduce an enemy's health. It can never go below 0. When you fight an enemy who has its health is 0, you can kill it without spending any Attack.

"Attach" to a Space

Some cards tell you to "attach" to that space. In this case put it in that space of the Wilds, but slide it up a bit. This way, other cards can still go into that space on top of the attached card, but the attached card's name is still visible. Attached cards don't move from their attached space unless a game effect forces them to.

"Clear" Space

A space is considered "clear" if there is no card in that space. A space that has an attached card can still be clear if there is no other card in it.

Copying a Card

Some effects allow you to play a virtual copy of a card. When you copy a card, pretend as though you just played that card. You get all of its Recruit Points, Attack, Class and Team Symbols, and special abilities. You can't kill a virtual card.

"Pay X" or "X Abilities"

Some cards allow you to "pay" or spend Recruit Points/Attack in order to get an effect. In this case, just spend the amount and follow the instructions. The Recruit Points or Attack you spent is gone and can't be used for anything else.

Enemies in Front of Players

Sometimes an enemy might end up in front of you instead of in the Wilds or Combat Zone. In that case, you can't play effects to move that enemy.

Deck Labels

Most cards in the game have a label on them that makes it easier to tell where a card belongs. This is especially useful when you're cleaning up and reorganizing a finished game.

Timing

If a card tells multiple players to do something at the same time, the player whose turn it is does it first. Then, the other players go in clockwise order.

If multiple cards are moved to the Combat Zone at the same time, then turn the first one face up (if necessary), and resolve any Reveal triggers or its Hazard or Event ability. Then, turn the next card face up, and so on.

If multiple effects occur at the same time, and it's not clear what order to resolve them in, the player whose turn it is chooses the order.

Character Classes

• Intel cards are the best at gaining information and drawing cards.
• Leadership cards help the team and are good at gaining characters.
• Strength cards are good at fighting enemies (and gain Honor if you're a predator).
• Survival cards can avoid drawing strikes and can heal.
• Tech cards can do a variety of weird and powerful effects like skipping the enemy phase by putting a card from your discard pile on top of your deck.

Dutch's Team: "So why don't you use the regular army? What do you need us for?" "'Cause some damn fool accused you of being the best." – Dutch and Dillon

Harrigan's Squad: "This is what I call the speech, kid. It's the only one I got and I only give it once, so pay attention. 'Til now, it's all been fun and games. Cops and robbers, Dunkin Donuts. But you're in the shit now. Metro Command is a war zone." – Lt. Mike Harrigan

Jungle Hunter: "Only in the hottest years this happens. And this year, it grows hot. We begin finding our men. We found them sometimes without their skins... and sometimes much, much worse. 'El cazador trofeo de los hombres' means the demon who makes trophies of men." – Anna

City Hunter: "There's no stopping what can't be stopped. No killing what can't be killed. This thing that's killing your people and mine is from the other side. I can feel him all around. You can't see the eyes of the demon, until him come callin'. This is dread, man. Truly dread." – King Willie.

Adjusting Difficulty

The game can be very hard, especially for newer players. Some Objectives and Locations are harder than others, and some combinations of characters and roles work better than others. In addition to trying out different combinations, here are some ways to make the game easier or harder.

To make the game easier, do one or more of these:

• During Setup, shuffle extra Young Blood cards into each Enemy mini-deck. Young Bloods are weaker than normal Enemy cards so the more Young Bloods you use, the easier the game. We recommend starting with one extra Young Blood per mini-deck.
• Treat each player's Defense value as extra Health.
• Give each player one (or two) free "preparation" turns where they get to skip the Enemy Phase. (Note: If you are playing with five players, each player automatically gets a preparation turn.)

To make the game harder, do one or more of these:

• During Setup, don't shuffle in as many Young Blood cards. The fewer there are, the harder the game. We recommend starting by removing one Young Blood per mini-deck.
• During Setup, put cards from the Enemy deck face down into the Wilds. The more cards, the harder the game.

Optional Rule: All or Nothing

With this variation, the game ends shortly after one player dies. If a player is killed, finish the current turn. Then, each surviving player gets one more turn. If the players haven't won the game by the end of that last turn, then they lose. (This rule makes the game harder and avoids a player needing to sit out for a while due to an early death.)

Scoring

If you'd like to keep score for your games, use these rules.

• If the players lose, they score 0 points.
• If the players win by killing the Final Enemy (a Major Victory), they score 5 points plus 1 point for each player that survived.
• If the players win by a Minor Victory, they score 1 point for each player that survived.

Playing Through the Movies

We suggest playing through the movies before you start mixing Barracks or Enemy decks. To do so, use the following cards:

Predator™

• Location: The Val Verdean Jungle
• Objective 1 / Enemy Deck 1: Expendable Assets
• Objective 2 / Enemy Deck 2: Flares, Frags and Claymores
• Objective 3 / Enemy Deck 3: Get to the Choppa!
• Characters: Blain, Dillon, Dutch, Mac

Note: All of these characters have the Predator movie icon.

Player Roles: Lieutenant, Tracker, Guerilla, CIA Agent, Radioman

Predator 2™

• Location: The Streets of Los Angeles
• Objective 1 / Enemy Deck 1: War Zone
• Objective 2 / Enemy Deck 2: Personal Little War
• Objective 3 / Enemy Deck 3: Other-World Life-Form
• Characters: Danny, Harrigan, Keyes, Lambert

Note: All of these characters have the Predator 2 movie icon.

Player Roles: Detective, Swat Officer, O.W.L.F. Agent, Gangster, Reporter

Combining Predator™ with Aliens™

You can combine both Legendary® Encounters games by doing the following:

Setup

1. Choose which board to play on. (This won't affect gameplay.)
2. Give each player a starting deck of 7 Experience or Specialists and 5 Brute Force or Grunts.
3. Use either Commanders or Sergeants.
4. Use a Location from either game.
5. Use any three Objectives and their mini-decks as long as there's an Objective 1, Objective 2, and Objective 3.
6. Use either Drones, Young Bloods, or both when making the Enemy deck.
7. Choose either of the games' Strike Decks.
8. Put the Hatchery Facehuggers and Chestbursters on the Hatchery.
9. Choose any four characters to make the Barracks.
10. Each player gets an Avatar from either game and its role card.

Special Rule: Marks

If you're playing with a Location from Aliens, whenever you reveal a Hazard and follow the instructions, the player whose turn it is then puts the Hazard card next to his Avatar. It counts as a "Mark." But if the Hazard's instructions say to put the Hazard somewhere else, like in someone's deck or back into the Hive, then do that instead of having it Mark a player.

Special Rule: Avoid the Next Strike and Avoid any One Strike

In Aliens, there are cards that let you avoid "the next strike." In Predator, similar cards let you choose which strike to avoid. (This is useful if you want to avoid an enemy with a Strike ability.) When mixing the games play "Avoid the next Strike" abilities as "Avoid any one Strike."

Game Term and Board Conversions

• Specialist = Experience
• Grunt = Brute Force
• Sergeant = Commander
• Hive = Enemy
• Complex = Wilds
• Room = Space
• Drone = Young Blood

If a card references a space on the board you're not using, then treat it as though it refers to the equivalent space on your board:

• Airlock = Hills
• Ruins = Med-Lab
• River = Weapons Locker
• Graveyard = Power Station
• Underground = Ventilation Shafts

Playing as Predators

Game Setup

Many of the basic game concepts and rules are the same when playing as Predators. This section will go over what's different and what's new. The biggest change is that instead of working together to fight the Predator, the players are now rivals, competing to earn the most Honor.

Note: Other than the starting cards (Experience and Brute Strength), all cards for this game mode have green names or deck labels.

Player Cards

Give each player their own personal 12-card deck made up of these character cards:

• 7 Experience
• 5 Brute Strength

Each player then selects one of the five Predator Roles and takes the appropriate Role Avatar and Role Card. (You can choose which ones you like or you can randomly deal out the Avatars.) Your Avatar works the same way in this game mode except that each Avatar is also worth an amount of Honor and has an Initiative Number which tells you which player goes first.

Trophy Room

Leave space next to your Avatar for your Trophy Room. You'll put each Trophy you collect (Prey, Gear, Traps, etc.) there face up – where they're worth Honor. You can look through your Trophy Room at any time, but other players can't.

Game Stacks

Shuffle the 8 Killer Instinct cards together, and place that stack face down on its space on the board.

Shuffle the 60 Prey Strike cards together, and place that stack face down on its space on the board.

There are no Locations or Objectives in this mode. Instead, shuffle the 20 Gear cards and 20 Trap cards separately, and place them on their respective spaces.

Set aside the Tests and Challenges. They won't be used until after you've played a few games.

The Prey Deck

There are six Prey mini-decks, each labeled "1," "2," or "3." During the game, three mini-decks are stacked on top of each other with the "1" deck on top and the "3" deck on the bottom.

There are also 24 Mercenary cards which are randomly shuffled into the mini-decks, depending on how many players there are. (See the Mercenary Chart on Page 21.)

Here's how to build the Prey deck:

• Choose three Prey mini-decks (one "1", one "2", and one "3")
• Shuffle the proper number of Mercenaries into each one separately.
• Then, put the "3" mini-deck on the Prey space on the board.
• Then, put the "2" mini-deck on top of the "3."
• Then put the "1" mini-deck on top of the "2."

So when you're done, you'll have one Prey deck with the "1" mini-deck on the top and the "3" mini-deck on the bottom.

Note: For your first game as Predators, we recommend playing through the first movie. (See page 26)

Mercenary Chart

Number of Players	Mercenaries in mini-deck 1	Mercenaries in mini-deck 2	Mercenaries in mini-deck 3	Special Rules
1	0	0	0
2	0	1	2
3	2	3	4
4	4	5	6
5	4	5	6	One Preparation Round*

*If you're playing with five players, each player gets one free "preparation" turn. Take those turns as normal except skip the Prey Phase.

Some players enjoy playing solo but controlling two Avatars. In this case, use the 2-Player row in the Mercenary Chart.

The Armory

Predator character cards go into the Armory. They represent a Predator's equipment and skills.

There are eight different groups of Armory cards, each with 14 cards. Each group is labeled either "Woodland" or "Urban" and features one of the four different classes: Intel, Strength, Survival, and Tech.

Note: There are no Leadership cards when playing as Predators.

To build the Armory, pick four groups (at random or your choice,) and shuffle all of those cards together for a total of 56 cards. (You can pick four different classes or double up on one or two of them.)

Starting the Game

• Put the top five cards of the Armory into the five spaces of the Headquarters (HQ).
• Each player shuffles their own personal deck of 13 cards, and draws a hand of 6 cards from it.
• The player with the lowest Initiative number (found on their Avatar) will go first. then play proceeds clockwise.

On Your Turn

During your turn, complete the following phases in order:

1. Prey Phase: Draw a Prey card, and add it to the Wilds face up.
2. Action Phase: Play cards from your hand, using them to recruit cards, fight prey, and avert danger.
3. Strike Phase: Each Prey in the Combat Zone strikes.
4. Cleanup Phase: Discard your hand and all cards played, and then draw six new cards.

Prey Phase: Add a Prey Card to the Wilds

This Phase works just like in the other mode with one big exception: Prey cards are revealed immediately and enter the Wilds FACE UP. (With a few exceptions, you won't need to scan hidden cards when playing as Predators.)

There are three different types of cards in the Prey deck: Prey, Gear Up and Danger.

Revealing a Prey

When you reveal a Prey, it enters the Underground, pushing other cards as normal. Some Prey are labeled "Worthy Prey," and one per game is labeled "Ultimate Prey." Some cards reference those terms.

Revealing a Gear Up

When you reveal a Gear Up, it doesn't enter the Wilds. Instead, discard it, and draw the top card of the Gear stack. Attach the new card face up to the closest Prey to the Prey deck. (The Underground is the closest space. If there are no Prey in the Wilds, then attach it to the leftmost Prey in the Combat Zone.) If there are no Prey at all, then leave the Gear in the Underground, and attach it to the next Prey to enter that space.

Gear cards grant abilities to Prey. A Prey can have multiple Gear. If two or more Gear on a Prey have an ability occur at the same time, the first Gear it found goes first.

Revealing a Danger

Danger cards represent tricks and other defensive maneuvers your prey has set up to trap you. Danger cards enter the Wilds and move just like a Prey. However, they can't be fought. Instead, you can pay to avert a Danger and put it into your Trophy Room. However, if a Danger card ever enters the Combat Zone, it is immediately discarded, into your Trophy Room.

You can spend Attack to avert a Danger in the Wilds or to disable a Trap in front of you. In both cases, you put the card into your Trophy Room.

Some effects may cause a card to turn face down in the Wilds. In this case, you spend Attack to scan spaces the same way you're used to.

Strike Phase: Each Prey in the Combat Zone Strikes

Prey cards strike from the Combat Zone the same way as in the other mode.

When playing as Predators, there are two types of Strikes: Damage and Dishonor.

Damage strikes work as usual: If you ever have damage equal to or greater than your Health, you die.

Dishonor strikes won't kill you. Instead, they go next to your Avatar, and at the end of the game they subtract from how much Honor you've earned.

Note: Once you draw a fatal Strike, you immediately die and stop drawing strikes.

Healing Damage and Restoring Honor

Healing works a little different when playing as a Predator. Many cards have the keyword "Heal" followed by a number. Each time you play one, you'll accumulate points of Healing (the same way you accumulate Recruit Points or Attack). You can spend those points during your Action Phase to heal that much damage. When you heal all the damage from a Strike, discard it. You can't partially heal the damage from a Strike; it's all or nothing.

For example, let's say you have the following Strikes: "Gotta Hand it to 'Em" (a Damage Strike), "Just a Scratch" (a Damage Strike), and three "Flesh Wound" Damage Strikes. If you play cards that total up to three points of healing, you have the following options: You could heal the "Gotta Hand it to 'Em." OR heal the "Just a Scratch" and one "Flesh Wound." OR heal all three Flesh Wounds.

Restoring honor works the same way: you accumulate points of Restoring, and you spend them to remove that much dishonor. When you restore all the dishonor from a Strike, discard it. You can't partially restore the dishonor from a strike; it's all or nothing.

If a strike causes both damage and dishonor, you must heal the damage and restore the dishonor on the same turn in order to discard that Strike.

Note: You can't heal damage or restore honor for another Predator.

Dueling other Predators

During your Action Phase, if you play a card that has the Duel keyword, you're allowed to attack another player. Spend Attack equal to that Predator's current defense (the Defense symbol) to force them to draw a Strike.

You are only allowed to attack another Predator if you played a card with Duel. You can only attack once per each instance of Duel you played. (If you play two cards with Duel, you can attack one player twice or two different players once each, but you must spend the proper amount of Attack each time.)

You don't have to Duel.

If you Duel a Predator, and they draw a strike that kills them, then put their Avatar into your Trophy Room.

Ending the Game

The game ends in one of three ways: When the Ultimate Prey dies, when a Predator dies, or when the Prey deck runs out.

When the Ultimate Prey dies, resolve any Death abilities it has, put it into your Trophy Room, and then the game ends.

Note: if an effect puts an Ultimate Prey back into the Prey deck, then the game continues.

When a Predator dies, he first sets his self-destruct timer, then turns his Avatar face down and is out of the game. Finish the current turn, and then each other living Predator gets one more turn. Then the game ends. (Each survivor runs away from the explosion.)

Note: If the Ultimate Prey is killed during these "extra" turns, then the game ends immediately.

If you need to add a Prey, but the Prey deck is empty, then shuffle the unused Mercenary cards and make a new Prey deck out of them. If that deck runs out, and you need to add a Prey card to the Wilds, then the game ends and all the Prey run away.

Once the game is over, each player should count up all of the Honor in their Trophy Room. This includes Honor from Prey, Gear, Danger, Traps, and Predators they've killed. If they survived, they also get Honor from their Avatar. Then, subtract any Dishonor the player has.

The player with the most Honor wins. (You can win the game even if you died.)

If two or more players are tied, then use the following tie breakers in order:

1. Did one of them kill the Ultimate Prey?
2. Did one of them kill the most Predators?
3. Did one of them kill the most Worthy Prey?
4. Did one of them kill the most total Prey (including Worthy Prey)?
5. Does one of them have the most total cards in their Trophy Room?
6. Is only one of them alive?

If those players are still tied, then they share the glory as the Prime Hunters!

Tests and Challenges

Tests and Challenges are additional ways for you to gain Honor. They are optional cards you can add to the game after you've played a few times. Add in Tests first. Then, once you're used to them, you can add in Challenges too.

Tests

During setup, shuffle ten random Tests into the Armory. Whenever a Test is revealed, put it into the Testing Ground. (This typically happens when you need to draw an Armory card to fill the HQ, including at the beginning of the game.)

Each Test has a condition. When you meet that condition on your turn, put the Test into your Trophy Room. (Note: If you reveal a Test in the middle of your turn, whatever you've done so far on your turn doesn't count toward earning that Test.)

If a card effect tells you to reveal the top card of the Armory, and it's a Test, then put that Test into the Testing Ground and reveal another card instead. After the game, remember to remove any leftover Tests from the Armory.

Challenges

Once you've played with Tests, you can add in Challenges. During setup, give each player a random Challenge card. Challenges are secret and should go underneath your Avatar face down. You can look at it at any time. Each challenge is a specific goal for the player. At the end of the game, players reveal their Challenges and earn Honor based on how successful they were.

Some Challenges refer to Armory cards. Armory cards are any cards that started the game in the Armory (excluding Tests).

OPTIONAL RULE: You can also play with visible Challenges. Just turn them face up at the beginning of the game.

Keyword Abilities on Prey

Runner

At the end of the Prey Phase, a Runner in the Wilds will move one space, pushing any card in that space as normal.

Escape

When a Prey with Escape enters the Combat Zone, it immediately gets discarded.

Lethal

When a Lethal Prey strikes you, you die if you draw a Damage strike.

Disarming

When a Disarming Prey is revealed, each player randomly discards down to 4 cards. Players now draw two fewer cards at the end of their turns.

Arrest

Police Officers can arrest other Prey. Put the Police Officer on top of the other Prey. The Prey loses its game text and the text of any of its Gear. It can't be fought or killed, it doesn't strike, and it can't gain Gear. When the Police Officer moves, the arrested Prey moves with it. When the Police Officer is killed, the Prey goes back to acting normal. While a Prey is arrested, it still counts as being in play for the purposes of other cards referencing it.

Trophies

Everything in your Trophy Room counts as a Trophy. This includes Prey, Gear, Dangers, Traps, Tests, other Predators, and so on.

Solo Play

When playing solo, try to earn as much Honor as you can.

Adjusting Difficulty

The game can be very hard, especially for newer players. Also, if your play group tends to Duel a lot, then you might want to make the Prey deck easier.

To make the Prey deck easier, do one of the following:

• During Setup, shuffle extra Mercenary cards into each Prey mini-deck. Mercenaries are weaker than normal Prey cards, so the more you face earlier in the game, the easier it will be. We recommend starting with one extra Mercenary per mini-deck.
• Give each player one extra preparation turn before Prey cards start entering the Wilds.

On the other hand, some players might find the game too easy. (This often happens when you play solo becuase there's no one to Duel you and you get more turns to make your deck awesome.)

To make the game harder do one or more of these:

• During Setup, don't shuffle in as many Mercenary cards. The fewer there are, the faster the game will get hard. We recommend starting by removing one Mercenary per mini-deck.
• Have each player take one turn where the only thing that happens is the Prey Phase and Strike Phase. (Players don't play cards or discard their hand at the end of the turn.)

Playing Cooperatively

Instead of competing, you and your fellow Predators can work together to hunt the Ultimate Prey. Everyone must agree beforehand that the game will be played cooperatively. The Duel keyword and some other effects won't be useful while playing cooperatively, but there are some advantages: You are now allowed to heal damage and restore honor for other Predators. You're also allowed to spend Attack to disable another Predator's trap. (Put it into your Trophy Room.)

Some Traps should be removed before you start: Flash Trap, Laser Trap, Log Trap, and Razor Trap.

Poison Trap and Snare Trap prevent you from Healing or Restoring Honor from anyone. But other Predators can still Heal or Restore from you.

The group wins the game by killing the Ultimate Prey. Win or lose you can also total up how much Honor the group earned in order to try to beat your best score.

Playing Through the Movies

We suggest playing through the movies before you start mixing Armory cards or Prey mini-decks. To do so, use the following cards:

Predator™

• Prey Deck 1: No Sport - 1
• Prey Deck 2: Payback Time - 2
• Prey Deck 3: What the Hell Are you? - 3
• Armory: Woodland (Intel, Strength, Survival, Tech)

Note: All of these characters have the Predator movie icon.

Player Roles: Jungle Hunter and any others

Predator 2™

• Prey Deck 1: Drawn By Heat and Conflict - 1
• Prey Deck 2: This is History - 2
• Prey Deck 3: A Taste for Beef - 3
• Armory: Urban (Intel, Strength, Survival, Tech)

Note: All of these characters have the Predator 2 movie icon.

Player Roles: City Hunter and any others

Hunting Aliens

You can mix both Legendary® Encounters games in order to play as Predators hunting the Aliens.

Setup

• Play on the Aliens board.
• Choose a Location from Aliens.
• Choose three Objectives, and build the Hive deck from Aliens as normal. (Use the Mercenary Chart to determine how many Drones to include in the mini-decks.)
• Use the Prey Strike deck.
• Use the Hatchery.
• Leave the Trap stack nearby in case an effect tells you to draw one. (However, if you draw Shadow Trap, then discard it and draw a new one.)
• Build the Armory as normal, and put it on the Barracks space.
• Put the Killer Instincts on the Sergeant Space.
• Each player gets a starting deck, Avatar, and Role card as normal.
• Decide if you're playing with the optional Alien Player rules. (More on this below.)
• If you're playing with Tests or Challenges, then don't use the following: Test of Courage, Test of Focus, Test of Respect, Cleverness, Cunning, Fearlessness, Technique.

Game Term and Board Conversions

When you're mixing games, several card names and game terms should be treated as the same. So if an effect references one of the terms, it should reference both.

• Specialist = Experience
• Grunt = Brute Force
• Sergeant = Killer Instinct
• Enemy = Prey
• Hive = Prey Deck
• Complex = Wilds
• Operations = Testing Ground
• Room = Space
• Drone = Mercenary

If a card references a space in the board you're not using, then treat it as though it refers to the equivalent space on your board:

• Airlock = Hills
• Ruins = Med-Lab
• River = Weapons Locker
• Graveyard = Power Station
• Underground = Ventilation Shafts

Special Rules

The gameplay is a cross between Aliens and Predator:

• You are playing competitively. When you kill an enemy, it goes into your Trophy Room.
• Enemies are worth Honor equal to the number in their deck label. So if it's from "The S.O.S. – 1," it's worth 1 Honor. And if it's from "No One Can Hear You Scream – 2," it's worth 2 Honor.
• If it's a Drone or it's from the Hatchery (including a Chestburster), it's worth 1 Honor.
• During the Enemy Phase, reveal the top card of the Hive. If it's an Event or Hazard, it resolves immediately. If it's an Enemy, it enters the Complex face up. If the card has a Reveal trigger that moves it somewhere, do that now without pushing the card that's in the Ventilation Shaft. (This does count as revealing it in the Complex.)
• Some effects will tell you to add a face-down Hive card. In this case, don't look at the card. It must be scanned to turn it face up.
• If an Egg or Colonist Host dies to an Event, no one gets the Trophy.
• You'll be able to complete Objectives just like in regular Aliens, and some of them will grant you Honor. (See below.) You can't complete an Objective until the one before it has been completed.
• Enemies marked as Final Enemies also count as Ultimate Prey.
• If the Hive runs out of cards, then shuffle the unused Drones to make a new Hive. If they run out, then the game ends.
• You can spend a Duel to be able to fight Ash for a turn.
• Failed Clones (in the Objective "You're a Thing. A Construct.") are worth Honor based on their rarity. Common cards have a colored frame around both sides of the card. Uncommons have the frame only on the left, and Rares have no frame at all.
• If a Facehugger jumps on you, you'll have until the end of YOUR next turn to kill it before it impregnates you. Other players can't fight a Facehugger that's on you.
• If you're playing with the optional Alien player rules, a player dying to a Chestburster won't cause the game to end. Predator players can attack an Alien player without needing to use a Duel keyword. If a Predator kills the Alien Player, he puts their Avatar into his Trophy Room where it's worth 5 Honor.
• Even if you die to a Chestburster, you can still win the game. However, if you're playing with the Alien Player rules, you can no longer gain or lose Honor once you become an Alien.

Updated Objectives and Locations

Use the following updated Objective and Locations text while playing Predators vs. Aliens. (You can also use these if you'd like to make playing regular Aliens harder. Ignore any text that mentions the Trophy Room. Also, some text will say different things depending on if you're playing Predator or just Aliens.) They are organized by Alien movies.

Alien™

The S.O.S. — Objective: Find both parts of the S.O.S. (When you find one, put it in your Trophy Room. It's worth 1 Honor.) Event: Rough Landing — Each player draws a Strike.

No One Can Hear You Scream — Objective: Block the Ventilation Shafts. (When you do, put the Ventilation Seal into your Trophy Room. It's worth 2 Honor.) Event: People are Disappearing — Each player discards two random cards from their hand.

A Perfect Organism — Objective: Kill the Perfect Organism. (It's worth 5 Honor instead of 3.) Event: It's Hunting Us — Move the leftmost Enemy or hidden card in the Complex to the Combat Zone. Then, add a face-down Hive card to the Complex.

The Nostromo — Hazard 1: Brought Something Back — Add three face-down Hive cards to the Complex. Hazard 2: It's Loose — Put the top two cards of the Hive into the Combat Zone. Hazard 3: Self-Destruct — Leave the Hazard card face up where it was revealed. It moves like an Enemy. If it reaches the Combat Zone, then discard it and each player draws three Strikes. Pay 8 Attack to Disarm the Self-Destruct. (Put it into your Trophy Room. It's worth 3 Honor.)

Aliens™

The Lost Colony — Objective: Kill three Colonist Hosts. (Put them in your Trophy Room as normal.) Event: Low Visibility — Add two face-down Hive cards to the Complex.

They Mostly Come At Night — Objective: Set up Sentry Guns in two rooms in the Complex. (If you're playing as Predators when you set up a Sentry Gun, then that's your Sentry Gun for the rest of the game. Only you get its bonus.) Event: Somebody's Gonna Have To Go Out There — Each player draws two Strikes.

Who's Laying The Eggs — Objective: Kill the Queen. (She's worth 5 Honor instead of 3.) Event: Taken to the Hatchery — Put the leftmost character in the HQ into Operations as a Captive. Then, add a face-down Hive card to the Complex. Any player can pay Recruit Points equal to a Captive's cost to rescue it. (Gain it.)

Hadley's Hope — Hazard 1: What Are We Supposed to Use, Harsh Language? — Each player reveals their hand and discards all characters that have a printed Attack of 1 or more. Hazard 2: They Cut the Power — Add face-down Hive cards until the Complex is full. Then, turn all enemies in the Complex face down, shuffle them together, and put them back into the Complex. Hazard 3: Cocooned — Each player draws a Trap. (If you're not playing with Traps, instead put your Avatar into Operations as a Prisoner. While imprisoned, you can't fight, scan, or gain characters. You or any other player may pay 6 Recruit Points to Free your Avatar.)

Alien3™

Where Are The Brothers? — Objective: Find both of the Missing Brothers, and rescue any that are still alive. (Once both are rescued and/or dead, complete this Objective.) Event: Dead on Arrival — Each player who hasn't rescued a Missing Brother draws two Strikes.

The Beast is Out There — Objective: Set up Bishop's Head in the Complex. (When you do, put it into your Trophy Room. It's worth 2 Honor.) Event: Easy Prey — Each player reveals their hand and discards a random character that costs 1 or more.

Nobody Can Stop It — Objective: Kill the Beast. (Each time you wound it, put that Event card in your Trophy Room. It's worth 2 Honor, as is The Beast.) Event: It's a Dragon! — Add a face-down Hive card to the Complex. If the Beast is in play, put the Event card under it.

Fiorina "Fury" 161 — Hazard 1: Stowaway — Shuffle five Facehuggers from the Hatchery into the Barracks. Hazard 2: Blood and Terror — Each player randomly chooses one of their Enemy Trophies. Shuffle them together face down, and then put two into the Combat Zone and the rest on top of the Hive. (If you're not playing with Trophy Rooms, then put two random dead Enemies into the Combat Zone instead.) Hazard 3-4: There's No One Coming To Help Us — Kill each character in the HQ, then refill the HQ. Then, shuffle the Hazard into the Barracks. When it's drawn again, repeat this process and then kill it.

Alien: Resurrection™

Breakout — Objective: Kill three Xenomorph Clones. (Put them in your Trophy Room as normal.) Event: They've Escaped — Add a face-down Hive card to the Complex. If there are any Enemies in the Complex, move them to the Combat Zone.

You're a Thing. A Construct. — Setup: Put the top three cards of the Barracks into the Combat Zone as "Failed Clones." They don't strike but can be fought. Objective: Kill the Failed Clones. (Pay Attack equal to its cost to kill one. Then, put it in your Trophy Room. Commons are worth 1, Uncommons are worth 2, and Rares are worth 3 Honor.) Event: Absolute Horror — Each player draws a Strike for each Failed Clone in the Combat Zone.

She'll Breed. You'll Die. — Objective: Kill The Cloned Queen and The Newborn. (Each is worth 5 Honor, and both must be killed to end the game.) Event: It's Their Ship Now — Kill the leftmost character in the HQ, and put the Event card in its space. That space is no longer part of the HQ. Then, add a face-down Hive card to the Complex.

The Auriga — Hazard 1: No Time to Waste — Gain the Hazard card. Each time a player draws it, they immediately draw a Strike and then put the Hazard card into any player's discard pile. Hazard 2: We Have to Work Together — Starting with you, each player may show any of their cards. For each of the 5 Classes that isn't shown, add a face-down Hive card to the Complex. Hazard 3: They're All Dead — Each player reveals their hand and kills all of their characters that have a printed Attack of 1 or more.

Other Combinations

If you're feeling extra adventurous, there are even more ways to mix the games, such as playing as Predators and hunting a mix of Human Prey and Aliens. Or you could mix in Marvel Legendary® cards for even more craziness. Have fun!

Game Contents

Rulebook, game board and 700 cards.

• 35 Experience
• 25 Brute Strength
• 15 Role Avatars (10 Human, 5 Predator)
• 15 Role Character Cards (10 Human, 5 Predator)
• 10 Commanders
• 8 Killer Instincts
• 224 Character cards (16 characters with 14 cards each)
• 2 Locations
• 6 Objectives
• 66 Enemy cards (6 different "mini-decks")
• 66 Prey cards (6 different "mini-decks")
• 24 Young Blood cards
• 24 Mercenary cards
• 40 Enemy Strikes
• 60 Prey Strikes
• 20 Traps
• 20 Gear
• 20 Tests
• 20 Challenges

Credits

Game Design and Card Set Design: Ben Cichoski and Danny Mandel (Super Awesome Games)

Brand Manager: Jason Brenner

Development Team: Jason Brenner, Bubby Johanson, Travis Rhea, Matt Rogers, Mark Shaunessy, Crystal Goggio

Product Manager: Bubby Johanson

Graphic Design: Krista Timberlake

Project Manager: Rachel Valverde

Art Direction: Matt Rogers

President, Upper Deck Company: Jason Masherah

Director of Creative Services: Mike Eggleston

Original Legendary® Game Engine Design: Devin Low

Playtesters: Jason Brenner, Heather Denaro, Chris Dotson, Crystal Goggio, Bubby Johanson, Travis Rhea, Matt Rogers, Mark Shaunessy, Jennifer Wu and many more

Super Awesome Playtesters: Drew Clark, Mike Leoncavallo

Quick Reference Guide

Mercenary/Young Blood Setup

Number of Players	How many in mini-deck 1	How many in mini-deck 2	How many in mini-deck 3	Special Rules
1	0	0	0
2	0	1	2
3	2	3	4
4	4	5	6
5	4	5	6	One Preparation Round*

*If you're playing with five players, each player gets one free "preparation" turn, which is a normal turn except that you skip the Enemy/Prey Phase.

©2015 UDC. 2251 Rutherford Road, Carlsbad, CA 92008. All rights reserved. Printed in Canada. Predator & Predator 2 ™ & © 2015 Twentieth Century Fox Film Corporation. All Rights Reserved.