Legend: History of 1000 Miglia
Legend: History of 1000 Miglia Rulebook
Table of Contents
Table of Contents
Introduction
From 1927 to 1957, the Mille Miglia sent drivers racing across Italy's open roads: from Brescia to Rome and back, through mountain passes, fog-shrouded valleys, and crowded village streets. It was a test of nerve, endurance, and mechanical survival.
Racing on closed circuits was no less heroic. Drivers faced the same danger and the same need to manage their machines with precision, without engineers or radios guiding their choices.
Legend captures that spirit. You control every aspect of your car: speed, racing line, braking, acceleration, and mechanical stress. There are no dice deciding how far you move and no random card draws determining your pace. Almost no alea is involved. The limited randomness reflect real-world uncertainty, like weather and mechanical drawbacks — but never override your decisions. How fast you go, how safely you drive, and how long your car lasts depend entirely on you.
Components
Each player uses:
- 1 Dashboard
- 1 model car
- 1 Position marker
- 1 Setup card set
- 1 Car Performance card
- 6 Turn pins (from A to T)
- 1 Brakes and 1 Accelerator counters
- 3 Switch counters
- 1 Transparent cube
Shared components include:
- Track tiles
- Turn markers (A–E)
- Slope markers (Uphill/Downhill)
- Damage cards deck
- Event cards deck
- Spare Part cards decks
- Chrono Board
Setup
Build the Track
Follow the diagram for the chosen race:
- Place Track tiles in order.
- Place Turn markers (A–E) on their spaces.
- Place Slope markers (Uphill/Downhill) where indicated.
These markers show what drivers would see on the road: corner severity and terrain changes.
Prepare Decks
Shuffle the Damage deck and Event deck separately. Keep Spare Part decks nearby, sorted by type.
Player Setup
Each player:
- Takes a Dashboard, car, Position marker, Setup card set, and Performance card.
- Sets the Dashboard according to the Performance card: 4. Place Turn pins (A, B, C, D, E) and the Top Speed limiter (T) in the correct Tachometer slots. Note that each Turn pins has two sides, a single letter (e.g., A) or a grouped side (e.g., AB). Pin E comes with the side ET, indicating the turn speed E and car's Top Speed. 5. Set Engine and Brakes needles to your Reliability value. For Track races, distribute your Reliability value between Engine and Brakes as desired. 6. Set the Acceleration and Braking limiters so that the last visible number on each track matches the values on your Performance Card (e.g., Acceleration +4 covers +5; Braking –3 covers –4). These limiters remain fixed during the game unless affected by damage or wear. 7. Set the Pace transparent cube on the 0 white box. 8. Set Tachometer and Temperature needles to 0. 9. Set Tire needle to 16. 10. Set the three switches to the left position of their slots.
Round Structure
Each round follows this sequence:
- Set the Pace: Choose your speed for the round and apply cooling or overheating effects.
- Move Cars: In track order, each car spends all its Movement Points (MPs).
- Assess Technical Issues: Apply any wear or strain caused during movement.
- Advance Time: Move the hands of the Chrono Board forward.
The race continues until all cars cross the finish line.
Setting the Pace
At the start of your round, you decide how your Speed will change. Depending on your position on the road, you may accelerate, brake, maintain your Speed, or lift and coast to cool the car.
In normal driving conditions, you may accelerate, maintain your current Speed, or lift and coast, but you may not brake.
The entry line of a turn is the only place where braking is allowed (see page 5).
Your Acceleration and Braking limiters show the maximum amount you can increase your Speed (Acceleration) or decrease it (Braking).
Your Acceleration value represents the total number of Acceleration points you may use during the entire round.
Whenever you use your full Acceleration allowance, increase your Temperature by 1 step. Under normal conditions, you may never exceed your listed Acceleration value.
If you choose to lift and coast (blue box on the Pace track), reduce both your Speed and Temperature by 1 step.
After selecting your Pace with the transparent cube, adjust the Tachometer and Temperature needles to reflect the change.
Your new Tachometer value is your Speed for the round and determines your Movement Points (or MPs).
Under normal conditions, the Tachometer needle may never go below 0 or above the Top Speed Limiter T.
However, you may exceed this limit by 1 step during a round by spending 1 Engine point.
As you grow familiar with the game, this choice must be quick and instinctive. Once you set your Pace, you commit to it, just like real drivers, you make the call in a few seconds, not counting the track spaces and deal with the consequences on the road.
Movement
Cars move in track order, starting with the one furthest ahead.
Movement rules:
- You must spend all your MPs unless a rule stops you early.
- Move one space at a time, straight or diagonally.
- Each space costs 1 MP.
- You may not enter or pass through a space occupied by another car.
If more cars are side by side and it's unclear who is ahead:
- The faster car moves first.
- If still tied, the car on the best line moves first.
- If still tied, the car closest to the inside of the current (or next) turn moves first.
Optional rule: Starting from the last of the tied cars, players may contest the moving order by bidding 1 Temperature step. If the direct competitor refuses to match the bid, they lose priority. If they accept and also bid 1 Temperature step, the moving order remains unchanged.
Place your Position marker on your starting space to track how far you move. This will prove decisive when approaching turns.
Slipstreaming
If you finish your movement directly behind another car on a straight, you must move one extra space forward.
Optional rule: Inside a turn, slipstreaming may also occur if you finish one space behind another car on the same best line, even if not in the same lane.
Whenever slipstreaming is triggered inside a turn (by either method), the extra movement pushes you one lane outward and costs 1 Speed point. You may spend 1 Tire point to resist this effect and remain in your current lane.
Example of movement. Round 1. The Red car starts on the grid at Speed 0. The Red player chooses to use the car's full acceleration value of 4, which increases the Temperature by 1 step. He then pushes the engine for one extra acceleration point, taking 1 Engine Damage.
He moves the Tachometer needle to 4 + 1 = 5, giving him a movement allowance of 5 spaces for this round.
Round 2. The Red car is paired with the Yellow car, both at Speed 5. On a straight with no best line, the innermost lane moves first, so Red acts before Yellow.
The Red player again uses the car's full acceleration of 4, raising Temperature by 1 step and reaching Speed 9. Since the car's Top Speed (T) is 7, he must choose whether to cap his speed at 7 or take 1 Engine Damage to keep one of the two extra points. He pushes the engine, accepts the damage, and sets the Tachometer to 8.
He now applies:
- +1 Temperature for using full acceleration
- +1 Temperature for exceeding Top Speed
- 1 Engine Damage for the extra Speed point
The Red car will move 8 MPs this round.
This approach puts severe strain on the car and is unsustainable in long races like the Mille Miglia.
Standing Start
Anytime your car begins the round at Speed 0, you must accelerate to get moving.
Increase your Speed by up to your Acceleration value.
If you use your full Acceleration value, raise your Temperature by 1 step.
During a standing start, you may stress the engine to gain +1 additional Acceleration, taking 1 Engine damage in addition to the Temperature increase described above.
Navigating Turns
A turn is defined by three elements: an entry line, an exit line, and a Turn marker (A = tightest, E = fastest).
The Turn pins on your Dashboard show your current safe speed for each turn rating. This is the maximum speed you may carry through the turn without penalty.
Best Line Bonus
If you follow the entire best line (the dark dotted path on the track), you may exceed the safe speed by +1.
Leaving the best line removes this bonus immediately for the entire length of the curve.
If you leave the best line -or join it later in the curve- you may spend 1 Tire point to regain the line and restore the +1 speed bonus.
Dive Braking at Entry
As you reach the entry line, you may brake to reduce your speed and match the safe speed for the incoming turn.
You can reduce your speed by your car's Braking value.
After braking, compare your new speed to the MPs already spent: if your new speed is higher, you continue moving to match the updated allowance. If it is lower or equal, your movement ends immediately.
Example of navigating turns. Round 3. The Red car approaches a B-Turn at Speed 8. He checks the B-Turn pin on his Tachometer: the safe speed is 3.
Still on the straight, he may only lift & coast, reducing speed by 1 to 7 and Temperature by 1 step. He moves 3 spaces to reach the entry line, where he brakes for the maximum his car allows: 3 points. This lowers his speed to 4. Because he committed to the Best Line, he gains +1 safe speed, raising the safe limit to 4, so the car enters the turn safely with the last remaining Movement Point.
Round 4. Committed to the Best Line, the Red car simply follows it at Speed 4. It finishes its movement right behind the Blue car. Although the two cars are staggered, they are on the same Best Line, so slipstreaming is triggered and the Red car must drift one lane outward.
Since there is just one space left before the exit line, the Red player accepts the outward drift, saving 1 Tire point by not resisting it, but losing 1 Speed point.
Entering Too Fast
If, after braking, your Speed is still higher than the safe speed for the turn, you have two options:
- Emergency braking:
- Spend 1 Brake point for each additional speed step you want to reduce.
- Enter the turn above your allowed speed and begin a drift:
- Spend 1 Tire point and move diagonally outward one space at a time, losing 1 Speed for each space you enter.
- When your speed matches the safe speed, the drift ends and you resume normal movement.
- If you leave the track before slowing enough, you crash in the first space you exit (see xyz).
You may also combine both options: spend some Brake points to reduce part of the excess speed, and drift to shed the remainder.
Powering Out at Exit
As you reach the exit line, you may accelerate by spending any remaining Acceleration points you still have available for this round. You may increase your Speed by up to your unused Acceleration value.
If this causes you to use your full Acceleration allowance for the round, raise your Temperature by 1 step.
If drifting carries the car beyond the exit line, the driver cannot power out at exit.
Example of navigating turns (continued). Round 5. The Red car spends 1 MP to reach the Exit line, allowing it to power out of the turn. Ahead, the Blue car has already committed to the Best Line of the next turn at Speed 3, so the Red car can only attempt a dive-bomb, trying to reach the Entry line at a higher speed.
The Red player accelerates by 2, raising his movement allowance from 3 to 5 MPs. He uses the remaining 4 MPs to reach the Entry line, pairing with the Blue car. To move first next round, the Red car must finish its movement faster than Speed 3. At the Entry line, he Lifts & Coasts for 1 point, reducing his Speed to 4 and lowering his Temperature by 1 step, which is enough to gain priority.
Round 6. The Red car, finishing the previous round at Speed 4, has gained movement priority over the Blue car, which is on the Best Line at Speed 3. The Blue player could challenge the priority, but chooses not to.
The Red player now faces an A-Turn, which has a safe speed of 2. He cannot use the Best Line bonus, and he is entering at Speed 4, so he must choose between taking 2 Brake Damage to reduce speed to 2, or entering the turn above safe speed and drifting outward. He chooses to enter too fast and drift.
As soon as the car enters the first space of the turn, it drifts one space diagonally outward, reducing Speed to 3. This drift carries the car across the Exit line, so the Red player loses the opportunity to Power Out and simply spends his remaining MPs to complete the movement.
Slopes
Uphill and downhill markers apply to the entire Track tile they are attached to.
Uphill
If you start your round on an uphill tile, reduce both your Acceleration and your Top Speed limiter by 1 step for that tile. After applying this reduction, if your current Speed exceeds the adjusted Top Speed, immediately reduce it to the new limit.
Using all of your (reduced) Acceleration or reaching your (reduced) Top Speed still raises your Temperature by 1 step for each occurrence.
As soon as you leave the uphill tile, your Acceleration and Top Speed return to their normal values.
Downhill
If your car is on a straight stretch of a downhill tile at the end of your movement, it must move 1 extra space forward and your final Speed increases by 1 step after resolving dive braking, Powering Out, or any other movement adjustments.
This compulsory movement and Speed increase do not apply while you are in a turn.
Crashing the Car
A crash occurs whenever a car is forced off the track. The car's speed is immediately set to 0, and the driver draws one Damage card, applies its effects, and discards the card. At the start of the next round, the car performs a standing start from the nearest track space. If the Damage deck is exhausted, shuffle the discarded cards to form a new draw deck.
Collisions
Players must avoid collisions whenever possible by choosing an alternate path or using dive braking as it was approaching an Entry line.
If a car is forced to move into a space occupied by another car, a collision occurs. When this happens:
- The colliding car stops on the first empty space adjacent to the hit car.
- It draws 1 Damage card, applies its effects, then discards it.
- Its speed is immediately halved (rounded up).
- The hit car suffers no damage; this prevents collisions from being used as a tactic.
Optional rule: For added realism, the colliding car draws 2 Damage cards and the hit car also draws and resolves 1 Damage card.
If the collision happens during a drift in a turn, both cars also drift one space to the outside of the turn.
Dealing with Technical Issues
The more players push their cars, the more likely they are to suffer technical problems. Balancing performance with wear management is the key to winning both Stage and Track races.
Temperature and Overheating
Your car's Temperature needle rises when you push the engine too hard.
Heating. Increase Temperature by 1 step for each of the following conditions:
- At the end of the round your speed matches your Top Speed limiter (T). This can only occur once per round.
- Any time you use your full Acceleration value. This may occur multiple times in the same round.
Rotate the Temperature needle clockwise for each heating step.
Cooling. Anytime you choose to lift and coast, reduce your Speed and Temperature by 1 step.
Overheating Test. If the Temperature needle is in the red zone at the end of your round, assign the indicated number of damage points to your engine.
Stopping to Cool. At the beginning of your round, you may stop the car and move it off the road:
- Reduce temperature by 2 steps per round stopped.
- If you discard an Acqua Refrigerante Galetti spare part while stopped, temperature drops to 0 within one round.
Engine Wear
The Engine needle tracks how much strain the engine has taken.
When the Engine condition needle enters the red zone, immediately reduce both your Acceleration and your Top Speed by the amount indicated by your current engine damage level.
Your Top Speed cannot be reduced below 1, and your Acceleration cannot drop below +1.
Repairing the Engine. You may stop the car at the start of your round and move it off the road:
- Reduce engine damage by 2 steps per round stopped.
- If you discard a Candele Folgore spare part while stopped, restore the engine to full Reliability in one round.
Adjust Speed and Acceleration limiters accordingly. Repairs cannot exceed the original Reliability value.
Flat Tire from Cards. Some cards cause an immediate flat tire: move the needle directly to the red zone and ignore its previous position.
Brake Wear
The Brake needle shows how much your braking system has degraded.
When the Brake needle enters the red zone, your Braking value is reduced to -1 and emergency braking is no longer available. This penalty remains until the brakes are repaired.
Repairing Brakes. Stop the car at the start of your round and move it off the road:
- Recover 2 steps per round stopped: Brake condition needle cannot move beyond 4.
- If you discard an Impianti Frenanti König spare part, brakes return to full Reliability in one round.
Adjust Brake limiters accordingly. Repairs cannot exceed original Reliability.
Tire Wear
The Tire condition dial has five zones, each affecting your Turn pins. Zone Effects:
- Zone 1 (16–12): Normal performance.
- Zone 2 (11–8): Shift all Turn pins 1 step counterclockwise.
- Zone 3 (7–4): Shift all Turn pins 1 additional step.
- Zone 4 (3–0): Shift all Turn pins 2 additional steps.
- Flat Tire (red zone): All Turn pins drop to the values shown by the flat tire icon on the Tachometer.
Each Turn pins has two sides, a single letter (e.g., A) or a grouped side (e.g., AB). If shifting a Turn pins would push it below the next one, remove the Turn pin and flip the lower one to its grouped side.
The lowest possible configuration is: AB at speed 1, CD at speed 2 and E at speed 3.
Replacing Tires. Stop the car at the start of your round and move it off the road: discard a Sutherland Tires spare part and move the Tire needle counterclockwise to the first underlined value it reaches (either 16 or 8). You may return to the track at the start of your next round.
Battery
Some cards may cause a battery failure. Move the Battery sliding switch on the Dashboard.
With a failed battery, your standing start speed is limited to 1, regardless of your Acceleration value. From the following round onward, your car accelerates normally again.
Replacing battery. At the start of your round, stop the car and move it off the road. Discard a Kraftvolt Batterien spare part and slide the switch back to the left: the battery returns to normal operation.
Headlight
Certain cards may cause a headlight failure. When this happens, move the Headlights sliding switch on the Dashboard to the right.
With failed headlights, you may check a Turn marker only when the car approaches the entry line, and a Slope marker only after entering its tile.
Replacing bulbs. At the start of your round, stop the car and move it off the road. Discard a Luxor spare part and slide the switch back to the left: normal visibility rules resume.
Repairs
Depending on the race type, you may access different repair modes.
Roadside Repairs (Stage races only)
At the start of your round, stop the car and move it off the road. Set your Speed to 0 and remain stopped for as many rounds as required by the repair you are performing.
When the repair is complete, return to the track on the next adjacent space and perform a standing start.
Technical Assistance Spots (Stage races only)
If you stop inside a Track tile marked with a Technical Assistance marker, repairs take half the time of roadside repairs and require no spare parts.
You may also gain one single spare part of your choice by remaining there for one additional round, provided you do not already hold a spare part of that type. The same rule applies when starting after a Checkpoint stage.
Pit Lane (Track races only)
The Pit Lane works like a Technical Assistance spot, but you must already possess the Spare Part card required for any repair. You cannot obtain new spare parts here.
You may enter the Pit Lane only from the track stretch marked "Box".
Advance Time
When all cars finish their actions, rotate the minutes hand of the Chrono board one step. When it returns to 0, advance the hours hand as well. Each time the hours hand advances, roll for Weather and draw an Event card.
Resolve Event card before placing it in the discard pile. When there are no more Event cards to draw, or if the reshuffle card is drawn, return all discarded cards to the deck and reshuffle it.
Night Driving
From 18:00 to 06:00, flip all Turn and Slope markers face-down.
Cars with working headlights may check any marker at any time.
If your headlights fail, you may check a Turn marker only when approaching its entry line, and a Slope marker only after entering its tile.
Weather
When the Chrono board advances to a new hour or when a card causes a weather change, roll the D6 die to determine the weather.
- 1 — Clear or Fog: Some stages may replace clear weather with fog. Fog uses the same visibility limits as failed headlights.
- 2–4 — Clear: Normal conditions with no effects.
- 5 — Light Rain: Temporarily reduce any Turn Marker by one step (not lower than A). Add +1 to the next weather roll.
- 6+ — Heavy Rain: Temporarily reduce any Turn Marker by two steps (not lower than A). Add +2 to the next weather roll.
Whenever the weather changes, immediately rearrange all Turn markers to match the new conditions.
Racing Day
Legend focuses on the Mille Miglia, which was run in stages, while other competitions involved multiple laps or long sessions on the same circuit. We distinguish these formats as Stage races and Track races, respectively.
General Rules for the Racing Day
Before selecting cars, players choose between Historical or Balanced gameplay.
Historical Gameplay. This mode reflects the real performance differences of the era. Cars are not balanced, and some are unlikely to win a race overall, but they may still achieve victory by points.
Historical play can be demanding, but winning against the odds is deeply satisfying. Performance disparities also create surprises and strategic depth, particularly in Stage races.
To play historically, select cars from the roster for the chosen year (see page xyz).
Balanced Gameplay. Balanced play uses cars of similar performance, creating closer and more predictable races.
To play a balanced game, choose cars with the same Ranking score or within a range of 3 points.
Players may also select cars from the same class or simply choose the same model: the closer the Ranking, the more balanced the race.
Players may still choose similar ranking cars from the same year roster, if they prefer.
If players opt to race with the same car model, the selecting car procedure below is not necessary and they all start the game with one Spare part card per type.
Selecting Cars
Each player collects one Spare Part card of each type.
Gather all Car Performance cards for the selected year or class and arrange them in a row from highest to lowest Performance score: Cars will be auctioned in this order.
Randomly choose a starting player. On your turn, you must either bid or pass.
To bid, play one or more Spare Part cards face up. Each new bid must exceed the previous one. Cards already played cannot be taken back.
If you cannot or do not wish to bid, you may pass. If you have already bid this round, return all your played cards to your hand; you may no longer bid for that car.
Play proceeds clockwise. The last remaining bidder wins the car.
If all players pass without bidding, the car remains unassigned and is removed from the auction, but it can be still selected as a Neutral car (see page 12). Auction continues with the next car.
After winning a car, assign your bid cards to the other cars still up for auction, distributing them as you prefer, as long as each car holds up to two Spare Parts. Once full, the car is locked and cannot receive more.
If no eligible cars remain, return the cards to their decks.
Once a player owns a car, they cannot participate in further auctions.
Each player will start the game with the Spare part cards left after the auction.
Special Rule — More Players Than Cars. If the number of players exceeds the number of available cars, as soon as two bidders remain, they share the same car model. Assign their bid cards to the remaining cars as usual. If the shared car has attached cards, divide them as follows:
- If one card is attached, it goes to the higher bidder.
- If two cards are attached, each bidder receives one at random.
Both players use the same Performance card. No more than two players may share a car.
Car Setup (Optional)
Car setup is an optional set of rules, but it makes balanced gameplay more thrilling and helps balancing the historical one.
Every Setup card offers two possible configurations. Position the card so that the selected configuration is readable.
Setup choices must be made before the start of the race. Some of these choices remain fixed for the entire event, while others may be changed at Technical Assistance spots or in the Pit Lane, provided you remain there for one additional round.
The effects of each setup option are described below:
- Gear ratio (fixed)
- Long Gears: Increase the Top Speed limiter by 1 step and reduce the Acceleration limiter by 1 step.
- Short Gears: Reduce the Speed limiter by 1 step and increase the Acceleration limiter by 1 step.
- Suspensions (adjustable)
- Stiff Suspension: Increase the D and E Turn pins by 1 step, and reduce the A and B pins by 1 step.
- Soft Suspension: Apply the inverse effect: increase A and B by 1 step, and reduce D and E by 1 step.
- Brake bias (fixed)
- Forward Bias: Increase the Brake limiter by 1 step, but assign 1 additional Tire damage per round whenever Tire damage is assessed.
- Rear Bias: Reduce the Brake limiters by 1 step, and reduce assigned Tire damage by 1 point per round.
- Tires treading (adjustable)
- Wet Tires: prevent Turn pins from shifting counterclockwise when it is raining, but they do shift counterclockwise when the track is dry.
- Hard Tires: reduce assigned Tire damage by 1 point per round, but when it is raining, all Turn pins shift 2 steps counterclockwise.
- Mixture (adjustable)
- Rich Mixture: Increase the Acceleration limiter by 1 step, but add +1 Temperature step per round whenever the car's temperature increases.
Stage Races
Mille Miglia, as any other stage race, is played over consecutive stages, starting from Stage 1.
Weather Conditions
Before starting the race, roll the D6 die to determine the weather conditions.
First Stage Start
At the beginning of the first stage, the player with the lowest Rank score starts first, followed by others in ascending order.
Starting times are staggered to simulate open-road racing: the minutes on the Chrono board indicate when each player begins (P1, P2, ecc.).
Example:
- At minute 0, Player 1 starts.
- At minute 3, Player 1 moves and Player 2 starts.
- At minute 6, Players 1 and 2 move, and Player 3 starts, and so on.
Players record their starting time on the Time Chart.
Once all drivers have started, turns proceed in track position order.
Standard Stage Finish
When a car crosses the finish line (Arrivo), its stage ends.
Drop any residual Movement Points (MPs), Record finishing time and speed on the Time Chart.
Optional rule: Instead of dropping residual MPs, convert them into saved time using the Residual MPs chart on the right and record it.
| Residual MPs | Bonus (s) |
|---|---|
| 1 | 0 |
| 2 | 31 |
| 3 | 41 |
| 4 | 45 |
| 5 | 48 |
| 6 | 50 |
| 7 | 52 |
| 8 | 54 |
| 9 | 56 |
| 10 | 57 |
| 11 | 58 |
| 12 | 59 |
| 13 |
Example: 4 residual MPs = –45 seconds on the racing time.
This option must be agreed upon by all players before the race begins.
New Stage After a Standard Stage Finish
Before starting the new stage, apply the damage indicated by the icons on its layout diagram: These icons represent the wear accumulated during the previous stage.
Identify the driver who finished earliest and reset the Chrono board to that time for the next stage.
All other drivers start at the same time and speed they finished the previous stage.
This preserves the real-world continuity of Mille Miglia stages.
Check Point
Some stages end with a Check Point (Punto di Controllo).
The Check Point line must be crossed at speed 2 or lower, as indicated by the speed limit on the finish marker. Exceeding the speed limit results in a 6-minute penalty to be added to the stage finish time. Drop any residual MPs.
Once all cars finish the stage, determine each driver's provisional racing time by subtracting race starting time from current finishing time, penalties and bonus included.
The leading car is the one with the shortest racing time.
New Stage After a Check Point
Follow the same rules used after a stage finish, except that all cars begin the new stage at Speed 0.
After a Check Point, players may acquire one Spare Part card of their choice, provided they do not already hold more than one card of that type and they remain stationary for one full round before departing.
Winning the Game
If you are the leading car at the final Check Point, you win the stage race.
In Balanced Gameplay, this also means you win the game outright.
In Historical Gameplay, additional achievements award points to level the field.
As a result, you may win the race but still lose the game or vice versa. Points are awarded as follows:
| Achievement | Points |
|---|---|
| Winning the Mille Miglia | 10 |
| Overall second place | 6 |
| Overall third place | 4 |
| Class winner (excluding Overall winner) | 8 |
| For each superior Class car finished behind | 2 |
| Least damaged car (assign 1 point to each damage step and malfunctioning system) | 5 |
The driver with the most points wins the game.
Track Race
Track races differ from the Mille Miglia in that they take place on shorter, closed circuits and are run over two or more laps. In this type of race, managing wear becomes secondary to pure performance.
Players may select one of the available circuits (see page xyz) or create their own by arranging Track tiles and assigning the Turn and Slope markers. Before starting, decide how many laps will be raced. As a guideline, consider approximately 40 minutes of gameplay per lap in a six-player game. We recommend racing at least two laps.
Weather
Before the race begins, roll the D6 to determine the initial weather conditions.
Timing
In Track races, use only the hours handle to track rounds. When the handle returns to 0, draw and resolve an Event card as usual.
Before starting to race, eliminate from the Event deck any card featuring the Chronograph icon and shuffle the deck.
Qualifying
To determine the starting grid, refer to the circuit's characteristics, shown as icons in descending order of importance.
- Top Speed: The car with the highest Speed limiter wins this comparison.
- Corner Handling: The car with the highest speed for the indicated corner rating (C in the example) wins this comparison.
- Braking: The car with the highest Braking limiter wins this comparison.
- Acceleration: The car with the highest Acceleration limiter wins this comparison.
These characteristics are also used as tie-breakers if two or more cars are tied on a given comparison. If ties remain roll the D6 die: the highest roll takes the position.
Starting from the last car on the grid, players may bid wear points to improve their starting position. The last-placed player may spend 1 point from any wearable part (Engine, Brakes, or Tires) to challenge the position immediately ahead.
The challenged player may either match the bid by spending 1 point of the same wearable part to keep the position, or pass and give up the position.
A player who passes cannot challenge any other car during qualifying..
Race
Once all challenges have been resolved, place the cars on the official starting grid of tile [TILE NUMBER].
Starting with the pole-position driver, each car begins the race with a standing start. The race continues until one or more cars cross the finish line after completing the scheduled number of laps. If two or more cars cross the line during the same round, the winner is the car that has advanced the farthest beyond the finish line; if a tie still remains, use the activation hierarchy as the tie-breaker.
The race continues until all cars have crossed the finish line, applying the same criteria to determine the complete finishing order.
Championship
Players may compete with the same car across multiple tracks to create a Championship. Before starting, choose as many circuits as desired and decide the number of laps for each race.
A scoring system awards points based on finishing positions (see table below). Retired cars do not score points. At the end of the Championship, the player with the highest total score is declared the winner.
| Position | Points |
|---|---|
| 1st | 9 |
| 2nd | 6 |
| 3rd | 4 |
| 4th | 2 |
| 5th | 1 |
| 6th | 0 |
Repairing Between Two Races
Players who finished on the podium may either collect one Spare Part card (as long as they do not already hold more than one card of that type) or repair up to 4 wear points distributed among Engine or Brakes.
Players who finished off the podium may do both, collect one Spare Part card (with the same limitation as above), and repair up to 4 wear points among Engine, Brakes, or Tires.
Between two races, after Spare Parts have been collected, Players may spend their Spare Part cards to fully repair the corresponding component.
Neutral Cars
If you are playing solo, or if there are fewer than eight cars on the track, you may add Neutral (bot) Cars to increase the number of competitors. You may use any number of Neutral Cars, up to a total of eight cars including human-controlled ones; you may exceed eight only if you have enough car miniatures to track their movement.
Neutral Cars are simple to manage and can be handled by a single player, but in multiplayer games it is recommended to assign each Neutral Car to a different player to simplify their management.
Neutral Cars Performance Cards
Each car includes a Neutral version printed on the reverse side of its Performance Card. The Neutral Card shows the car model and a table with seven columns and three rows. The columns represent the 0 value for standing still, the various Turn Speeds (A, B, C, etc.), and the Top Speed (T). To match a Neutral Car with its miniature on the track, place the Position marker of the corresponding color on its Performance Card.
Activating Neutral Cars
Neutral Cars activate in track order, just like human-controlled cars.
When the first Neutral Car is about to move, roll 1D6 and keep the result visible; this die result determines the row used by all Neutral Cars for that round.
For each Neutral Car, locate the intersection between the rolled row and the appropriate speed column on its Performance Card to determine its movement allowance for the round.
Neutral Cars follow the same movement rules as human players, with two priorities:
- always take the best racing line;
- on straights, prefer the innermost lane to gain priority in side-by-side situations.
Standing Start. For a standing start, Neutral Cars use the 0 column on their Performance Card during the first round.
Straights. On straights, a Neutral Car always uses the Top Speed (T) column, even if this movement carries it into a turn. In that case, it simply follows the best available line. If that line is occupied, it shifts sideways with no penalty.
Turns. When a Neutral Car is one space away from a turn, or already inside it, use the Turn Speed column that matches the turn's difficulty.
As soon as the car reaches the exit line of the turn, switch to the Top Speed (T) column and use any remaining movement points.
If its movement inside a turn leads directly into another turn of higher difficulty, simply follows the best line; if that line is occupied, it shifts sideways with no penalty.
Checkpoints. Treat the Checkpoint line as the entry line of a B-Turn for Neutral Cars.
Slopes. On uphill sections, Neutral Cars use the E column instead of the T column.
On straight downhill sections, add +1 movement point to their movement allowance.
Slipstreaming. Neutral Cars benefit from slipstreaming on straights exactly as described in the main rules.
Fog, Night and Rain. In low-visibility conditions (fog or night without working headlights), if a Neutral Car moves from a straight into a turn and the die result for that round is 5 or 6, shift the car one lane outward and end its movement in that lane. If this shift causes the car to exit the track, draw and resolve a Damage card.
Crash and collisions. Neutral Cars never crash into other cars. If their ideal path is blocked, they simply move through any available unoccupied spaces with no penalty. If all lanes are blocked, move the Neutral Car as far as possible and discard any remaining movement points.
Damage, Wear and Repairs (Neutral Cars)
Neutral Cars do not track damage, wear, or repairs like human-controlled cars, except for Headlight and Battery failures, which apply normally. Whenever a card or event assigns any other type of damage to a Neutral Car, treat it as an immediate one-round stop for repairs (in Stage Races), followed by a standing start on its next activation. Time-penalty cards still apply.
Neutral Cars must stop at a Technical Assistance / Pit Lane space if they carry any Damage card. They remain stopped for a number of rounds equal to the number of Damage cards they hold (maximum 2: one Headlight and one Battery failure).
In Track Races, whenever a Neutral Car enters a tile containing a Pit Lane or Technical Assistance space and the die roll is 1 or 2, it stops for one round and performs a standing start on the next. This stop is added to any mandatory stop required to clear Damage cards..
Points Scoring
Neutral Cars are treated exactly like human-controlled cars for points scoring and prize awards.