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Heroscape Master Set: Age of Annihilation

Heroscape Master Set: Age of Annihilation Rulebook

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

  • Basic Game Guide
    • Getting Ready to Play a Basic Game
    • About Your Army Cards
    • The Battle Begins!
    • On Your Turn
      • Action 1. Choose an Army Card
      • Action 2. Move figures represented by your Army Card
      • Action 3: Attack with figures on your Army Card
    • Ending the Battle
  • Master Game Guide
    • Getting Ready to Play a Master Game
      • Using a Pre-Set Army
      • Using a Premade Army
    • Drafting an Army
    • Friends and Enemies
    • Order Markers
    • Wound Markers and Dice
    • Glyphs
  • The Battle Begins!
    • A Round of Play
    • 1. Place Order Markers
    • 2. Roll For Initiative
    • 3. On Your Turn
      • Action 1. Reveal your Order Marker (always)
      • Action 2. Move figures represented by your Army Card (optional)
    • Engagement and Adjacency Rules
      • Action 3. Attack with Figures on the Army Card (optional)
    • Attacking
    • Ending a Round
    • Ending the Battle
    • Scoring
      • Squads
      • Heroes
    • Glyphs
    • Special Powers
    • Flying and Overhangs
    • Special Power References on Army Cards
    • Simultaneous Special Powers
    • Using Multiple Master Sets and/or Expansion Sets

Basic Game Guide

Welcome to Heroscape! Whether you are a new player gathering your first Army or a veteran returning to the table, the world of Valhalla issues you a glorious welcome! Heroscape is a war game, meaning you will assemble troops and battle your opponent for the fate of the land and its people. This book will explain to you the rules of both the Basic Game (a lower-complexity version of Heroscape) and the Master Game (in which the full powers of your figures are unleashed).

If you want to know more about the world of Valhalla and the characters you will find within this box, look to the Battlefields and Scenarios Book to sate your curiosity. Also within that book are the components list for this box, and many exciting narrative Scenarios to explore on your way to mastery of the game.

Good luck, General! Remember always: Battle is brutal, but games are meant to be fun.

Objective: Create a battlefield, choose your Army, and battle your opponent. To win, be the first to achieve your Scenario's Victory Objective.

Getting Ready to Play a Basic Game

1. SET UP YOUR BATTLEFIELD AND YOUR ARMY

To do this, open the Battlefields and Scenarios Book and choose a battlefield. The book features several battlefields, each with its own story and step-by-step instructions for building it. The instructions start with the bottom layer and then build up from there. If this is your first game, we recommend you choose the first battlefield in your accompanying Battlefields and Scenarios Book.

After you've chosen a Basic Game Scenario and built the battlefield, choose one of the Scenario's available Armies. Place your Army Cards in front of you, then position your figures on the battlefield as shown in the Scenario.

With experience, you may want to build your own battlefields and create your own Scenarios and Armies. Go for it!

About Your Army Cards

The Army Cards feature all the characters who can fight in your battles. The cards include an image of the character(s) and show various attributes. There are two types of Army Cards: Heroes, which show one (usually more powerful) warrior, and Squads, which show two or more (usually less individually powerful) warriors who all work together. The Army Cards are two-sided, with one side used for the Basic Game and the other side used for the Master Game. In this game, you'll use the Basic Game side of the Army Cards.

Basic Game Scenarios will tell you which figures to use for each player. Example 1 shows an array of Army Cards; Example 2 explains the information displayed on each card.

EXAMPLE 1: Your Army Cards (Basic Game Side) You've chosen to be player 1. You've taken your 4 Army Cards and placed them in front of you, and you've placed your Army (all seven figures) on their starting positions as shown on the Scenario's setup + diagram.

EXAMPLE 2: Army Card Numbers (Jandar's Frostclaw Paladins)

  1. MOVE – The Frostclaw Paladins each have a maximum move of 5 spaces.
  2. RANGE – The Frostclaw Paladins are each able to attack up to 1 space away.
  3. COLLECTOR INFO – This block tells you where the figures are from in the world of Heroscape, which set they came in, and their number within that set.
  4. ATTACK – Each Frostclaw Paladin rolls 3 dice when it attacks.
  5. DEFENSE – Each Frostclaw Paladin rolls 6 dice when it defends.
  6. PORTRAIT – The figure(s) represented by this Army Card will match their portrait. The card's values apply to all figures it represents, even if they look a little different.

2. PLACE THE COMBAT DICE

Position the combat dice near the battlefield. The combat dice are used as attack dice (rolling for skulls) and also as defense dice (rolling for shields).

Unless you are otherwise directed by your chosen Scenario, you don't need any other game parts for the Basic Game. Just place the other game components aside, out of play.

The Battle Begins!

Each player rolls six combat dice. The player who rolls the most skulls takes the first turn. (Re-roll if there's a tie.) Players then alternate turns until the game is over.

On Your Turn

Usually, you'll take three actions on your turn, in this order:

Action 1. Choose an Army Card Action 2. Move figures on your Army Card Action 3. Attack with figures on your Army Card

All three of these actions are explained in detail in the following sections.

Action 1. Choose an Army Card

First, choose one of your Army Cards to use on your turn. You can't choose a card if all of its figures have been destroyed.

Action 2. Move figures represented by your Army Card

Now you may move any or all of the figures that are shown on the Army Card you chose. Follow these rules for moving each figure:

  • Check the Move Value: You can move a figure in any direction a number of spaces up to the Move Value on its Army Card. For example, with a Move Value of 5, Frostclaw Paladins can each move 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 spaces. Uneven terrain and water may limit their movement, as you'll soon see. Example 3 shows basic movement.

EXAMPLE 3: Basic Movement On this turn you choose to move all of your Frostclaw Paladins toward their enemies on the other side of the battlefield. Notice they may each move any number of spaces up to their Move Value of 5.

  • Order of movement for Squads: You may move a Squad's figures in any order you choose, one at a time.
  • Passing through and landing on other figures: You can move through a space with a figure you control on it; but you can't move through a space with an opponent's figure on it. You can never end a move on a space with any other figure.
  • Moving up and down: In Heroscape, the battlefield is rarely flat! Each layer of same-height tiles is called a level. Your figure's level is the same as the level of tile it is currently standing on. When you move to a higher level, count the side of each tile you ascend to determine how much extra movement it takes to reach the new higher level. When you move to any lower level, you don't need to count extra movement on the way down. Examples 4 and 5 show how to move up and down.
  • Obstacles: Walls, trees, and other large barriers are known as "obstacles". A figure cannot move through or onto obstacles.

EXAMPLE 4: Moving Up You must count three spaces for your Frostclaw Paladin to move up onto this ledge. One for each new level, and one for moving onto a new space.

EXAMPLE 5: Moving Down To get down from this ledge, your Killian Vane III counts only one space for this move.

  • Moving onto water: When you move onto a water space from any other space (even from another water space), you must end your move there. See Example 6A.

EXAMPLE 6A: Moving onto Water When they move onto the water space, your Frostclaw Paladin must stop after moving only two spaces.

  • Moving from water onto land: For water spaces that are lower than the adjacent land spaces, the "moving up" rule applies — When moving from water to land, count the side of each land space as you move up. See Example 6B.

EXAMPLE 6B: Moving out of Water When moving from the water space to the adjacent land space, your Frostclaw Paladin must count two spaces.

  • Moving a double-space figure: Some figures, like Xenithrax the Vineweaver and Raelin the Kyrie Warrior, take up two spaces. When moving a double-space figure, decide which end to lead with (for example, the front end or the back end). Then move the figure so that the other end enters the same spaces that the leading end just left. You must always end a double-spaced figure's move on two spaces of the same level. A double-space figure does not have to stop when it moves over one water space between two land spaces; but it does have to stop if it moves down onto two adjacent water spaces. Example 7 shows how to move a double-space figure.

EXAMPLE 7: Moving a Double-Space Figure Raelin the Kyrie Warrior moves six spaces, front end first, with the back end following along the same spaces (second picture). Notice that Raelin counts the side of the land space when moving up from the water space. Her move ends across the water on two land spaces of the same level (bottom picture).

She can move up to 7 spaces with her Move Value of 7. But she doesn't have to! You can stop a figure's movement strategically to stay out of range of enemy attacks, or get ready to for future turns.

Action 3: Attack with figures on your Army Card

Now it's time for your Hero or Squad to attack any figures in your opponent's Army that they can.

Who can attack? Any figures represented by your chosen Army Card that are within Range of an opponent's figure and have a clear Line of Sight can attack. If no figure on your Army Card meets these two conditions, you can't attack and your turn is over.

To see if a figure can attack, check the figure's Range and Line of Sight as explained below:

  • Range: The target figure must be within the attacking figure's Range. For example, with a Range Value of 5, Bok-Bur-Na can attack any enemy within 5 spaces of him (as long as he can see it).

    A figure with a Range Value of 1 can only attack a figure on an adjacent space.

    A double-space figure like Raelin the Kyrie Warrior can attack from either space they occupy.

    When checking a figure's Range, don't count extra spaces for higher levels. (However, being on a higher level is an advantage during an attack — see below.) If the distance between your figure and the target includes an area with no spaces (for example, near the edge of the battlefield), you must count the spaces along the edge of the battlefield to check the Range.

  • Line of Sight: To attack a figure, your figure must be able to "see" it from its location. For example, if the target figure is behind a stack of tiles, so that the attacker can't see any part of it, then no attack is possible.

    Unlike Range, Line of Sight is an imaginary straight line that has nothing to do with the spaces on the battlefield. The best way to tell if your attacker has a clear Line of Sight is to get behind its head and look at the targeted figure. If you can see any part of it from its head, you have a clear Line of Sight. Note: It doesn't matter if the Line of Sight goes off the edge of the battlefield, with no spaces below it.

    Example 8 shows how to determine if a targeted figure is within an attacker's Range and Line of Sight.

EXAMPLE 8: Range and Line of Sight You want your Killian Vane III to attack Raakchott, Steward of Death.

  1. First, you count the spaces from Killian Vane III to Raakchott, Steward of Death: Raakchott, Steward of Death is 4 spaces away, so they are within Killian Vane III's Range.
  2. Then, you check for a clear Line of Sight: Your Killian Vane III can "see" Raakchott, Steward of Death, so your Killian Vane III can attack.

If you're attacking with a Squad, each figure represented by your chosen Army Card can attack, one at a time, in any order you choose. Each figure can attack only once per turn. Different figures may attack the same opposing figures or different opposing figures.

Attacking

For each attacker, follow the steps below:

  1. Announce which one of your figures is the attacker, and which figure it is targeting. The target figure becomes the defender.
  2. Check the Attack Value on your attacker's Army Card, then roll that number of attack dice. After you roll, your opponent rolls a number of defense dice equal to the Defense Value on the defender's Army Card.

Height Advantage: If the base of one figure is on a higher level than the base of the other figure (no matter their actual size), the higher figure rolls one extra die.

  1. For every skull you roll for your attacker, your opponent must roll at least one shield for their defender to block the skulls. IMPORTANT: For attack rolls, the attacker counts only skulls. For defense rolls, the defender counts only shields.
  • If you roll more skulls than the defender rolls shields, your attack is successful and the defender is destroyed! The player who controls it removes it from the battlefield. IMPORTANT: In the Basic Game, it only takes one successful attack to destroy a figure. Be careful about rushing into battle!
  • If you roll the same number of skulls or fewer than the defender rolls shields, your attack is unsuccessful. The attacking and defending figures stay where they are, and that attack is over.

After you attack with every figure that can attack, your turn is over.

Example 9 shows an attack and its outcome.

EXAMPLE 9: The Knaves of the Silver Scimitar Attack! Two of your Knaves of the Silver Scimitar are within Range of Raakchott, Steward of Death (Range 1). They both also have clear Line of Sight. Choose one of the two Knaves of the Silver Scimitar to attack first. The other two, which are not within Range, will not make attacks.

THE FIRST KNAVE OF THE SILVER SCIMITAR ATTACKS Knaves of the Silver Scimitar have an Attack Value of 3. That means they roll 3 combat dice when they attack. Your first Knave of the Silver Scimitar is on a higher Level than Raakchott, Steward of Death, giving them Height Advantage. Height Advantage grants the Knave of the Silver Scimitar one additional combat die for their attack, making the total number of dice they roll 4 for this attack. Roll the dice... 2 skulls for the attacker.

The defender has a Defense Value of 8, so your opponent rolls 8 combat dice... 2 shields for the defender.

The defender rolled the same number of shields as the attacker rolled skulls, so they blocked the attack. Both figures stay where they are.

THE SECOND KNAVE OF THE SILVER SCIMITAR ATTACKS The second Knave of the Silver Scimitar can now attack! They have the same Attack Value as their squadmate and also have Height Advantage, so they roll 4 combat dice... 3 skulls for the attacker.

Raakchott, Steward of Death defends again! They roll their 8 dice... 2 shields for the defender.

The defender rolled fewer shields than you rolled skulls! Your attack succeeds. Your opponent removes their destroyed Raakchott, Steward of Death from the battlefield.

THE REMAINING KNAVES OF THE SILVER SCIMITAR CANNOT ATTACK There are no enemy figures within Range of your other two Knaves of the Silver Scimitar, so they cannot attack. You have no attacks left to make, so your turn is over.

Ending the Battle

Keep playing until one player achieves the Victory Objective of the chosen Scenario. That player wins the battle!

Master Game Guide

In the Master Game, your Army figures get serious with Special Powers and special rules for moving and battling. Because of their extra strength and powers, these warriors can't be defeated so easily. As a Valkyrie General, your mission is to gather a well-balanced Army, lead them boldly into battle, and wage war strategically to conquer the enemy. Good luck. And may the best Valkyrie General win!

Game Components: See page 1 of the Battlefields and Scenarios Book for a list of components.

Object: Create a battlefield and choose your Army, then fight in The Battle of All Time! To win, be the first to achieve your Victory Objective—Some Scenarios demand more from you than mere destruction, so be sure to read them carefully and plan your strategy around the battle at hand.

For First-Time Players: If this is your first time playing the Master Game, we recommend that you set up the first map shown in your Battlefields and Scenarios Book and play the first Master Game Scenario that goes with it.

Getting Ready to Play a Master Game

1. SET UP YOUR BATTLEFIELD

To do this, choose a battlefield and a matching Master Game Scenario from the Battlefields and Scenarios Book. After you've played a few games, you may want to create your own battlefields and Scenarios!

Playing as a team: Players can choose to play as a team. While teammates play the game separately, they can discuss strategy and offer advice. Victory Objectives for teams vary with the Scenario, but in most games, they work together toward a common goal. If you're playing a team game, teammates should sit next to each other on one side of the table, facing their opponents. See page 11 for more information about playing as a team.

Playing with Multiple Master Sets and/or Expansion Sets: There are a few special rules for doing this. They are explained on page 21.

About the Army Cards

In this game, you'll use the Master Game side of the Army Cards (shown on the next page).

As in the Basic Game, each Army Card features either a Hero or a Squad, with Move, Range, Attack, and Defense Values. But you'll notice that the Master Game side of each card has much more information about the figure than its Basic Game counterpart. As you play, you'll become more familiar with how this information is used during gameplay. Example 1 explains the Army Card information.

2. GATHER AND PLACE YOUR ARMY

For Master Game Scenarios, you can use a pre-set Army or a premade Army, or you can draft an Army. These three ways of gathering an Army are explained below.

As you gather your Army, be sure the total Points Cost doesn't exceed the Points Cost limit listed for the Scenario you chose. It can be lower, but not higher. Players don't need to have the same number of Army Cards. For example, you may have three Army Cards while an opponent has four or five Army Cards. This is okay.

Army Card colors: In the Master Game, the complexities of the characters and their allegiances are on full display. Therefore, your Army can include Army Cards of mixed colors.

Using a Pre-Set Army

Some Scenarios specify the Armies to use. As in the Basic Game, you choose which pre-set Army you want to control. After choosing your Army, place your Army Cards in front of you, then place your figures on the battlefield where shown in the Scenario.

Using a Premade Army

Experienced players may know exactly which Armies they want, based on the Scenario, the Points Cost, their favorite figures, or other factors. If both players agree, they may both supply custom premade Armies with Points Cost totals equal to or less than the Scenario's Point Cost limit. If you've already chosen (or brought along) your Army, place your cards in front of you. Then players roll the 20-sided die to see who places their Army on the battlefield first. Reroll ties. The highest roller will place their entire Army first; placement then passes to the left. You must place your entire Army in one of the Scenario's same-color starting zones. You cannot place any figures in an enemy-occupied starting zone. If you are combining sets and playing with three or more players, unless stated otherwise in the Scenario, teammates start in the same starting zone. If there are more figures in your Army than spaces in your starting zone, you can't use the extra figures.

EXAMPLE 1: Your Army Cards (Master Game Side) (Revna's Raakchott, Steward of Death)

  1. Valkyrie Symbol: This symbol is the unique mark of the Valkyrie General the figure(s) follow.
  2. Valkyrie: The Valkyrie General who the figure(s) on this Army Card serve. When building your own Army, you may combine Army Cards from any Valkyrie Generals to create an Army that is all your own.
  3. Name: This is what the figure(s) on this Army Card are called. This name may be shortened or abbreviated in the Special Powers shown on the card.
  4. Species: Biological classification of the figure(s).
  5. Uniqueness: All Army Cards are either Unique or Common. When selecting Army Cards for your Army, you cannot select more than one Unique Army Card with the same name. You may select any number of the same Common Army Card.
  6. Hero / Squad: All Army Cards are either Hero or Squad cards. Hero cards feature a single figure, capable of acting on their own in the heat of battle. Squad cards feature two or more figures who act together. Your Army may include all Heroes, all Squads, or any combination.
  7. Class: The type of figure. Special Powers may sometimes reference this.
  8. Personality: The figure's dominant behavior in the world of Heroscape. Special Powers may sometimes reference this.
  9. Size: The overall weight category of the figure(s).
  10. Height: The number of levels tall the figure(s) are.
  11. Special Power(s): Most figures have one or more Special Powers that allow them to go above and beyond the standard attacking, moving, and defending.
  12. Portrait: An image of the figure(s) whose Army Card this is.
  13. Target Point: The green dot shows where you determine Line of Sight from on each figure.
  14. Hit Zone: The red area shows what part of the figure(s) can be attacked. Used when determining Line of Sight.
  15. Life: The number of wounds it takes to destroy each figure.
  16. Move: The maximum number of spaces the figure(s) may move.
  17. Range: The number of spaces away that the figure(s) may attack.
  18. Attack: The number of dice you roll for the figure(s)' normal attack.
  19. Defense: The number of dice you roll when the figure(s) defend.
  20. Points Cost: The cost of drafting this Army Card and its figure(s) into your Army.

Raakchott, Steward of Death's Special Powers, for reference:

  • Command Familiar: After revealing an Order Marker on Raakchott, Steward of Death, before taking Raakchott's turn, you may take a turn with a Small or Medium Beast you control.
  • Consume the Dead: Start the game with 3 red Consume Markers. When a figure within 3 clear sight spaces of Raakchott is destroyed, place a Consume Marker on this Army Card. You cannot place more than one Consume Marker on this card each turn.
  • Soul Fury Special Attack: Range 1. Attack 2 + Special. All figures adjacent to Raakchott are affected by Soul Fury Special Attack. Add 1 to Raakchott's attack dice for each Consume Marker on this Army Card. Roll attack dice once for all affected figures. Each figure rolls defense dice separately. Do not place Consume Markers on this Army Card while using Soul Fury Special Attack. After using Soul Fury Special Attack, remove one Consume Marker from this Army Card for each figure you attacked this turn.

Drafting an Army

Drafting is a fun way for players to interact and share figures while building their Armies, by taking turns choosing which Army Cards they want to include in their Army from a shared pool of figures. When you select an Army Card, take the figure or figures shown on the card and place them in a starting zone immediately, before the next player selects an Army Card. You must place your entire Army in the same starting zone. You cannot place any figures in an enemy-occupied starting zone. Unless stated otherwise in the Scenario, teammates start in the same starting zone. If there are more Army figures than spaces in your starting zone, you can't use the extra figures.

For a two-player game, players draft as follows:

  1. Both players roll the 20-sided die, rerolling any ties. The player who rolls higher drafts first, by choosing one Army Card. This card is added to their Army.
  2. The other player then chooses two Army Cards, adding both to their Army as before.
  3. Taking turns, each player then chooses one Army Card at a time until they reach the Points Cost limit, or until no additional figures can be chosen.

For a game with three or more players, players draft as follows:

  1. All players roll the 20-sided die, rerolling any ties. The player who rolls the highest drafts first, by choosing one Army Card. This card is added to their Army.
  2. The player to their left then chooses one Army Card, and so on. The last player to draft chooses two Army Cards.
  3. Drafting goes back around the table in reverse direction. The last player—the player who drafted first—chooses two Army Cards. Then the draft reverses direction again.
  4. If at any time a player cannot pick another Army Card because choosing it would exceed the total Army Points Cost limit, that player must pass. If you pass, you have completed your Army.
  5. Continue going back and forth around the table with the last player in each direction choosing two Army Cards and reversing the draft direction until all players have completed their Armies.

Friends and Enemies

Once all players have gathered their Armies, you'll know who is a friend, and who is an enemy. All figures represented by Army Cards in your Army are "friendly" figures. All figures represented by Army Cards in your opponent's Army are "enemy" figures.

Most games of Heroscape are played with only two players, but if you combine multiple boxes, you can play with more! In multiplayer games that support teams, figures in your allies' Armies are also friendly figures. Note: only figures represented by Army Cards in YOUR Army are figures "you control". If you are playing with a teammate, any effects that target figures you control do not affect your teammate, so plan carefully!

Order Markers

Each player takes four Order Markers: 1, 2, 3, and X. In each round, you'll place these markers on your Army Cards to mark the order in which your figures will move and attack.

Wound Markers and Dice

Place all of the Wound Markers and the combat dice near the battlefield. The combat dice are used as "attack dice", when you roll for skulls, and also as "defense dice", when you roll for shields.

Glyphs

Glyphs are magical enchantments that can grant a figure unique and powerful abilities when it lands on them. Some Scenarios call for Glyphs to be placed on certain spaces. For more information about Glyphs, see page 20.

The Battle Begins!

The game is played over several rounds. A round consists of three turns for each player.

A Round of Play

The Round Marker Track: In the Battlefields and Scenarios Book, each Master Game Scenario features a numbered line where players keep track of the rounds they've played. Before you start the first round, place the black Round Marker (or any marker you have available) on the "1". At the end of each round, move the Round Marker ahead to the next number.

Each round of play consists of the following four steps:

  1. Place Order Markers
  2. Roll for Initiative
  3. Take Turns
  4. Move the Round Marker ahead to the next number

These four steps are explained in detail below.

1. Place Order Markers

Once turns begin in step 3, you'll use each turn to move and attack with the figure(s) represented by one of your Army Cards. During the Place Order Markers step, you must decide which Army Card you'll use on which turn. Place Order Markers on those cards–1 for the first turn, 2 for the second turn, and 3 for the third turn. You may place two or more Order Markers on the same card, if you want to use that card for two, or even all three, of your turns that round. Be careful how you place your Order Markers! You cannot change them later, and you are committed to using those figures in that order during the round.

Players place their Order Markers at the same time. Place your Order Markers with the numbers facing you, so your opponent(s) can't see them. (In games with more than two players, teammates can look at each other's Order Markers.)

The "X" Order Marker: This extra marker is not used on any of your turns. It is a decoy to prevent your opponents from knowing which three Order Markers you actually intend to use. Place it carefully to misdirect your opponent, or trigger Special Powers of certain figures!

If your Army includes two or more of the same Common Army Card, you don't need to keep these figures separate (that is, keep track of which figures belong to which card). Each Order Marker placed on a Common Army Card lets you activate any of your figures that belong to one of those Common cards, up to the number of figures displayed on the card. So, if you have two of the same Common Squad Army Card, each showing three figures, when you use either of those cards, you can activate any three matching figures.

Example 3 shows how you might decide to place your Order Markers.

EXAMPLE 3: You Place Your Order Markers In this round, you decide to mobilize Admiral EJ-1M (first turn), Raakchott, Steward of Death (second turn), then Raakchott, Steward of Death again (third turn). You place the X Order Marker on the Knaves of the Silver Scimitar, to misdirect your opponent.

2. Roll For Initiative

After placing Order Markers and before turns begin, each player rolls the 20-sided die for Initiative—to determine who goes first. The player who rolls the highest result wins Initiative and will take the first turn this round. Play then passes to the left, and continues passing after each turn until all players have taken 3 turns. If there's a tie for highest roll, the tying players reroll.

For example, Lee, Brad, and Mary are playing. Lee rolls a 7, Brad rolls a 15, and Mary also rolls a 15. Brad and Mary roll again to break the tie. This time Brad rolls a 1 and Mary rolls a 6. Mary won the tiebreaker and will take the first turn. She reveals her Order Marker 1 and takes her turn with that Army Card. Play then passes to her left, regardless of the remaining Initiative rolls. Turns continue until all players have taken all three of their turns. When the round ends after each player has taken their third turn, the players will again place their Order Markers and roll for Initiative for the next round.

3. On Your Turn

During a round, players alternate turns until each player has taken three turns. Usually, you'll take three actions on your turn, in this order:

Action 1. Reveal your Order Marker (always) Action 2. Move the figures on the Army Card (optional) Action 3. Attack with figures on the Army Card (optional)

All three of these actions are explained in detail in the following sections.

Action 1. Reveal your Order Marker (always)

Start your turn by revealing your Order Marker for that turn and then laying it number-side up on the Army Card it was placed on. Note: Later in the game, it's possible that all of the figures represented by that Army Card have been destroyed. If this is the case, your turn immediately ends.

Action 2. Move figures represented by your Army Card (optional)

Now you may move any or all of the figures represented by your chosen Army Card, if you want to. Follow these rules for moving each figure:

  • Check the Move Value: You can move a figure in any direction a number of spaces up to the Move Value on its Army Card, changing direction at will. For example, with a Move Value of 5 a figure can move 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 spaces. (Uneven terrain and water may limit movement, as you'll soon see.) Example 4 shows basic movement.
  • Order of movement for Squads: You can move a Squad's figures in any order you choose, one at a time.
  • Passing and landing on other figures: You can move through a space with a friendly figure on it (your own or a teammate's), unless that figure is engaged (see Engagement and Adjacency Rules on page 16). You can't move through a space with an opponent's figure on it, or end your move on a space with any other figure.

EXAMPLE 4: Basic Movement Loviatäk the Kyrie Warrior has a Move Value of 5. You move her the full five spaces toward the opposing figures. Note: Loviatäk the Kyrie Warrior may move through Raelin the Kyrie Warrior because she is a friendly figure.

  • Moving up: When you move to a higher level, you must count the side of each higher level as one space, as well as the space you land on. Example 5 shows how to do this. If your figure can't move enough spaces to reach the top of a ledge, then it can't move there.

Note: Glyphs and water tiles do not add height to any spaces on which they are placed.

EXAMPLE 5: Moving Up Count the side of each level as you move Dorim the Bulkhead Brawler to the top of the first ledge. Note: Dorim the Bulkhead Brawler cannot move to the top ledge, because it would take 6 spaces of movement, and his Move Value is only 5.

Note: Some figures have Special Powers that allow them to Fly. Flying is a type of movement that allows figures to pass over the battlefield without needing to spend extra movement to move up, or suffer damage from falls. See Special Powers on page 20.

Height limit: A figure cannot move up a number of levels equal to or higher than its Height all at once. See Example 6.

EXAMPLE 6: Height Limit for Moving Up Dorim the Bulkhead Brawler cannot move up to the space marked with X because it would take five moves to reach the top, and Dorim the Bulkhead Brawler's Height is 4.

  • Moving down: When you move to a lower level, you don't need to count sides on the way down. However, there may be a penalty for moving to a much lower level (see Falling). Example 7 shows a figure moving down.

EXAMPLE 7: Moving Down To move Admiral EJ-1M down from this ledge, you don't need to count the sides of the levels.

Falling: When a figure moves down to a much lower level, it may be wounded. This is called "falling". Falling does not stop a figure's movement, but it may wound or destroy it. Here are the rules for falling:

If a figure moves down a number of levels that is equal to or greater than its Height, you must roll one combat die immediately to see if it was wounded. If you roll a skull, the figure takes a wound.

  • If the drop is 10 or more levels greater than the figure's Height, it is considered a major fall and you must then roll two additional dice (for a total of three dice). For each skull you roll, the figure suffers one wound. (See Life, on page 18.)
  • If the drop is 20 levels more than the figure's Height, it is considered an extreme fall, and you must roll the 20-sided die. If you roll 19 or 20, the figure survives without taking any falling damage. If you roll 1-18, the figure is destroyed. Example 8 shows a figure falling.

Falling rules do not apply if a figure falls onto a water space. A figure can fall onto a water space from any level without being wounded.

Figures that can Fly never fall. See Special Powers on page 20.

EXAMPLE 8: Falling When you move Dorim the Bulkhead Brawler down from this five-level cliff, you must roll one attack die for the fall, because the cliff is equal to or higher than his Height of 4. You don't roll a skull, so Dorim the Bulkhead Brawler is safe.

  • Moving onto water: When you move onto a water space from any other space (even from another water space), you must end your move immediately, even if your figure has some movement spaces left. See Example 9. Note: Water only stops double-space figures if they move their entire base onto water. See Moving a double-space figure on this page.

EXAMPLE 9: Moving onto Water When you move one of the Knaves of the Silver Scimitar onto a water space, she must stop there.

  • Moving from water to land: Water tiles do not add a level to the space they are placed on. For water spaces that are lower than the adjacent land spaces, the "moving up" rule applies. When moving from water to land, count the side of each land space as you move up. See Example 10.

EXAMPLE 10: Moving out of Water When moving this Knave of the Silver Scimitar from the starting water space up onto the adjacent land space, you count two spaces because the water is one level lower than the land space. The Knave of the Silver Scimitar then moves three additional spaces for a total move of 5.

  • Moving a double-space figure: Some figures, like Xenithrax the Vineweaver and Raelin the Kyrie Warrior, take up two spaces. When moving a double-space figure, decide which side to lead with. (You can choose either side, even if the figure looks like it is moving backwards!) Then move the figure so that the other end enters the same spaces that the leading end just left. Always end a double-space figure's move on two spaces of the same level. A double-space figure does not have to stop when it moves over one water space between two land spaces, but it does have to stop when it moves onto two adjacent water spaces. Example 11 shows how to move a double-space figure.

EXAMPLE 11: Moving a Double-Space Figure (Note: Raelin the Kyrie Warrior can Fly, so normally she would not count extra spaces when moving up. But the battle can move in mysterious ways, and sometimes she might lose her ability to Fly temporarily, such as when someone activates the Glyph of Rannveig! Let's look at how to move a double-space figure like Raelin the Kyrie Warrior if they cannot Fly...)

From her starting spaces (top picture), Raelin the Kyrie Warrior moves five spaces front side first, with her other side trailing along the same spaces as her front (middle picture). Raelin the Kyrie Warrior ends her move on the grass tile, on two same-level spaces (bottom picture). After her fifth move, Raelin the Kyrie Warrior cannot move onto the ledge on either side of her even though she has a Move Value of 6, because it would leave her other side dangling perilously off the cliff! She instead completes her move by continuing along same-level spaces.

  • Flipping a double-space figure: Any time during a double-space figure's move, you may flip it. You might choose to flip to fit your figure on the available spaces better. See Example 12. To flip a double-space figure, turn the figure around while keeping it on the same two spaces. The flip is free; it does not count as part of your move. The double-space figure does not take any leaving engagement attacks when it is flipped, since it is staying on the same two spaces. (Leaving engagement attacks are explained on page 16.)

EXAMPLE 12: Flipping a Double-Space Figure Raelin the Kyrie Warrior flips to face the other direction.

Obstacles: Barriers such as walls and trees are known as "obstacles". A figure cannot move onto or through an obstacle's space. If a specific obstacle has additional rules, those rules will be defined in the Scenario Book that accompanies the obstacle.

Overhangs: An overhang exists when one or more tiles are above another tile with space in between. Figures that are small enough to do so may move under overhangs. Example 13 shows an overhang.

EXAMPLE 13: Moving Under an Overhang On this battlefield, notice that the Knave of the Silver Scimitar on the left can move under this overhang, but the Frostclaw Paladin, on the right, cannot.

Figures can also move up onto low overhangs, as long as their Height and Move Value are enough to do so. To determine the levels of an overhang, count the nearby support tiles. See Example 14.

EXAMPLE 14: Moving Up onto a Low Overhang Knight Irene counts the nearby support tiles as she moves onto this overhang.

  • Keep the base on the space: When you end a figure's move, make sure its base lies flat and is on that space only (or spaces, in the case of double-space figures). No part of its base may overlap on another space or area between spaces.
  • Tight quarters: A battlefield may have narrow passageways, walls, or overhangs that limit the movement of some figures. A figure cannot move through or onto a space that it cannot fit onto completely. Example 15 shows a figure in tight quarters.

EXAMPLE 15: Xenithrax Moves into Tight Quarters Xenithrax the Vineweaver can't move into this chasm because she is too big; her wings and tail prevent her from standing completely flat.

EXAMPLE 16: Some Figures Block Spaces No figure can occupy this space because Xenithrax the Vineweaver's tail is in the way.

Engagement and Adjacency Rules

A figure is engaged when it is adjacent to an enemy figure. Friendly figures can be adjacent to each other, but not engaged with each other. To become adjacent, two figures must be on spaces that are only one space apart. (Double-space figures count adjacency and engagement from both of their spaces.) However, there are exceptions:

  • If one figure's base is on a level equal to or higher than the Height of the other figure, they are not adjacent (and therefore are not engaged, even if they are enemies). See Example 17.

EXAMPLE 17: Not Adjacent This Knave of the Silver Scimitar is not adjacent to Loviatäk the Kyrie Warrior because Loviatäk the Kyrie Warrior is on a ledge that is five levels high, which is higher than the Knave of the Silver Scimitar's Height of 4.

Leaving an engagement: Your figure may move around an opponent's figure that it is engaged with without difficulty, but as soon as your figure attempts to move away onto a space that's not adjacent, the opponent's figure may make a "leaving engagement attack" against your figure. To do this, the player who controls the opposing figure rolls one die (regardless of their Attack Value). You do not roll any dice to defend your figure; your back is turned as you leave! If a skull is rolled, your figure receives one wound. Place one Wound Marker on its Army Card (see Life, on page 18).

Multiple engagements: Your figure may become engaged with more than one figure at the same time. As you leave each engagement, that opposing figure may roll one attack die. For each skull rolled, your figure receives one wound. Example 18 shows a multiple engagement.

EXAMPLE 18: Multiple Engagements When you move Raakchott, Steward of Death away from two opposing Frostclaw Paladins, your opponent may roll one die for each Frostclaw Paladin. Two skulls are rolled, inflicting two wounds. You place two Wound Markers on Raakchott, Steward of Death's Army Card.

Action 3. Attack with Figures on the Army Card (optional)

Now it's time for you to attack with your Hero or Squad.

Who can attack? Any figure(s) represented by your chosen Army Card that are within Range and have a clear Line of Sight to a target can attack. (See the next page for information on Line of Sight.) If no figure on your Army Card meets these two conditions, then no attack is possible.

Looking for hidden figures: At any time, feel free to walk around the battlefield to find out which figures are hiding behind raised terrain areas or walls, for example. As you explore in this way, the other players may want to shield their Order Markers so you can't see them.

Before attacking with a figure, check its Range and Line of Sight as follows:

  • Range: A targeted figure must be within the attacking figure's Range. For example, Bok-Bur-Na has a Range Value of 5, so he can attack any figure within 5 spaces of himself (that he has Line of Sight to; see Line of Sight on the next page).

    A figure with a Range of 1 can only attack a figure in an adjacent space.

    A double-space figure can attack from either space it occupies.

    When checking Range, don't count extra spaces for any difference in levels.

    If the distance between your figure and the target figure includes an area with no spaces (for example, near the edge of the battlefield), you may still attack it, but you must count the spaces along the edge of the battlefield to check the Range.

Engaged figures: If one of your figures is engaged with one or more opposing figures, your figure may attack only those figures. Note: A figure does not need Line of Sight to attack a figure that it is engaged with or adjacent to.

Attacking around other figures: You may attack figures even if other figures are between your figure and the target figure, but you must still have a clear Line of Sight to attack.

  • Line of Sight: To attack a target figure, your figure must be able to "see" it from its location. Line of Sight is an imaginary straight line between your attacking figure's Target Point and the target figure's Hit Zone, which are shown on those figures' Army Cards. The Target Point is the green dot on the attacking figure, and the Hit Zone is the red area on the target figure. Unlike Range, Line of Sight has nothing to do with the spaces on the battlefield.

    To determine if there is a clear Line of Sight, check the Target Point and the Hit Zone. Then get behind your figure and look to see if its Target Point can "see" any part of the target figure's Hit Zone. If so, there is a clear Line of Sight.

    For example, if the target figure is behind walls or a cliff so that your figure can't "see" it, then no attack is possible. The only exception to this rule is if a figure is engaged with or adjacent to another figure—A figure does not need Line of Sight to attack a figure that it is engaged with or adjacent to.

If players disagree about whether or not there is a clear Line of Sight, roll the 20-sided die. The player who rolls higher gets to make the call.

Adjusting Figures: Players may only touch or move their own figures, and may do so only on their own turns. For example, you cannot adjust your figure out of the Line of Sight during an opponent's turn!

Example 19 shows how to determine if a targeted figure is within an attacker's Range and Line of Sight.

EXAMPLE 19: Range and Line of Sight You want Killian Vane III to attack Raakchott, Steward of Death.

  1. First, you count the spaces from Killian Vane III to Raakchott, Steward of Death. Raakchott, Steward of Death is 4 spaces away, so they are just within Killian Vane III's Range.
  2. Then, you check for a clear Line of Sight from Killian Vane III's Target Point to Raakchott, Steward of Death's Hit Zone. Knight Irene is in the way, but Killian Vane III can still see part of Raakchott, Steward of Death's Hit Zone, so he can attack.

Attacking

The figures on your chosen Army Card can attack one at a time, in any order you choose. Each figure can attack only once per turn (unless they have a Special Power that says otherwise), but each figure can attack the same figure or a different figure.

Before attacking, consider any Height Advantage, Special Powers, and Glyphs that affect your attack, as explained on the next page. (The You-Snooze-You-Lose Rule: If you forget to do this, tough luck. Maybe next time, you'll remember!)

  • Height Advantage: If the base of one figure is on a higher level than the base of the other figure, no matter their actual Size or Height, the figure on the higher level has a Height Advantage and rolls one extra die for either attack or defense. If the base of the higher figure is 10 or more levels higher than the base of the lower figure, the higher figure instead rolls two extra dice for either attack or defense.

    When determining Height Advantage, remember that Glyphs and water tiles do not add height to the spaces they're on.

  • Special Powers and Special Attacks: Many figures have Special Powers that help them move, attack, defend, and more. Check your figure's Army Card to see if there are Special Powers that figure can use. If your Army Card includes a Special Attack (which will have the words "Special Attack" in the name), you may use this attack instead of a normal attack. Page 20 explains Special Powers and Special Attacks.

  • Glyphs: Some Glyphs give the attacker or the defender an advantage. Glyph powers are explained on page 20.

To carry out an attack, follow these steps:

  1. Set up the attack. Announce which figure is the attacker, and which figure is the defender. Confirm that the defender is within the attacker's Range and Line of Sight.

Note: Sometimes friendly figures get in the way of big attacks, have interesting Special Powers when they are destroyed, or are accidentally targeted by confused friendly figures. Whatever the reasoning, it is important to remember that you CAN attack friendly figures. When you do, they become the defender, and follow the remaining steps as normal.

  1. Roll the dice to attack. Check the Attack Value on your attacker's Army Card, adding any extra attack dice for Height Advantage, Special Powers, or Glyphs. Then roll that number of attack dice. After you roll, the defender rolls a number of defense dice equal to the Defense Value on the defender's Army Card, adding any extra dice earned for Height Advantage, Special Powers, or Glyphs.
  2. Resolve the Attack. For every skull (also called a 'hit') the attacker rolls, the defender must roll at least one shield to block it. Important: For attack rolls, the attacker only counts skulls (hits). For defense rolls, the defender only counts shields. Compare the number of skulls (hits) and shields rolled to determine the effect of the attack:
  • Unsuccessful attack — If the attacker rolls the same number of skulls (hits) or fewer than the defender rolls shields, the attack is unsuccessful. That attack is over.
  • Successful attack — If the attacker rolls more skulls (hits) than the defender rolls shields, the attack is successful. For each unblocked skull the attacker rolled, one Wound Marker must be placed on the defender's Army Card.

Life: When a Hero figure has as many Wound Markers as the Life Value on its Army Card, it is destroyed. The player who controls the destroyed figure places it on its Army Card. When all the figures represented by an Army Card have been destroyed, that Army Card is out of play. Do not expose any unrevealed Order Markers that are on that card for the current round of play until that turn begins. In future rounds, you can't place Order Markers on or take turns with that card. At the beginning of the next round, any Order Markers still on that Army Card are removed and can be placed again as normal.

Squads and Life: Most Squad figures have only 1 Life each, and do not track wounds the same way Heroes do. When a successful attack is made against a Squad figure, that figure is destroyed and placed on its Army Card. Do not add Wound Markers to Squad Army Cards.

Some Squad figures have more than 1 Life each! When these figures take one or more wounds, place the Wound Marker(s) next to their figure on the battlefield to keep track. Make sure to move them along with the figure if it moves! Like Heroes, a multi-life Squad figure is destroyed when it has Wound Markers next to it equal to or greater than its Life Value. If a Special Power refers to the number of Wound Markers on a figure's Army Card, a single figure in a multi-life Squad counts the Wound Markers next to it on the battlefield; and only its OWN Wound Markers (not the Wound Markers of its squadmates!)

Destroying a Common figure when your Army includes two or more of the same Army Card: If your Army includes two or more of the same Common Army Card, follow this rule when a common figure is destroyed: When the first figure represented by your Common Army Cards is destroyed, you may place it on any matching Army Card. Continue placing destroyed figures of that type on the same card until it is full. (A Common Army Card is full when a number of matching destroyed figures have been placed on it equal to the number of figures depicted on the card.) If a figure is destroyed and a matching Common Army Card already has a destroyed figure on it, you must fill up that card first before placing any destroyed figures on an empty matching Army Card.

After you've finished attacking, your turn is over. The player to your left then takes a turn.

Example 20 shows an attack and its outcome.

EXAMPLE 20: An Attack One of your Knaves of the Silver Scimitar attacks Xenithrax the Vineweaver. You roll three attack dice.

Xenithrax the Vineweaver has a Height Advantage, so she adds one die to her Defense Value of 3. Your opponent rolls four defense dice for Xenithrax the Vineweaver.

Knave of the Silver Scimitar

You roll two skulls.

Xenithrax the Vineweaver

Your opponent rolls no shields.

Xenithrax the Vineweaver takes two wounds. Place two Wound Markers on Xenithrax the Vineweaver's Army Card.

Xenithrax the Vineweaver already had six Wound Markers from previous attacks. She now has eight Wound Markers (the same as her Life Value), and is destroyed. Your opponent places Xenithrax the Vineweaver on her Army Card, but leaves the Order Marker there. When it is their turn to reveal their 2 Order Marker, they must end their turn immediately.

Ending a Round

After the last player takes their third turn, the round is over. If no one has won yet, move the Round Marker ahead one space on the track. Players then begin a new round by placing their Order Markers, then rolling for Initiative.

Ending the Battle

The game Scenario sets the victory conditions for each game. Sometimes winning isn't as easy as destroying all of your opponent's figures! However, if the game hasn't ended before you've played a certain number of rounds, you may decide that the player (or team) with the most points wins. See Scoring, below.

Scoring

In cases where scoring is necessary, each player or team scores points for each Army Card with figures still on the battlefield. Refer to the Points Value found on the card.

Squads

If part of a Squad has been destroyed, divide the Points Value by the number of figures in the Squad to get the value for each individual figure.

For example: Three of your four Knaves of the Silver Scimitar were destroyed. You have one left on the battlefield. The Points Value for this Squad is 65. 65 divided by 4 equals 16.25. You would score 16.25 points for the Knave of the Silver Scimitar that is still alive.

Heroes

If a Hero has no Wound Markers on its Army Card, you score points equal to its full Points Value. If there are any Wound Markers on a Hero's Army Card, you will score partial points. Divide the figure's Points Value by its Life Value to determine how much each wound costs in points. These Wound Marker points will reduce the total points scored for this figure.

For Example: Ewashia, Master of Tides has a Points Value of 115 and a Life Value of 4. 115 divided by 4 is 28.75. Ewashia, Master of Tides has two Wound Markers on her Army Card. For each Wound Marker, subtract 28.75 from Ewashia, Master of Tide's Points Value of 115. 115 minus 28.75 is 86.25, minus 28.75 again for the second wound is 57.5. Ewashia, Master of Tides with two wounds is worth 57.5 points at the end of the game.

Glyphs

Depending on the Scenario, Glyphs are placed on top of battlefield spaces either power-side up or symbol-side up. Glyphs are stationary unless it is otherwise stated in the Scenario. When one of your figures moves onto a Glyph that is symbol-side up, stop there and turn the Glyph power-side up; the powers on the Glyph take effect immediately. When your figure lands on a power-side up Glyph, it must stop and activate the Glyph's effect. Note: A double-space figure must stop when its leading side moves onto a Glyph. Some Glyphs grant temporary powers, while others grant longer-lasting ones. The powers of each Glyph are described in the Battlefield and Scenario Book that accompanies them.

Special Powers

The Special Powers of the figures keep each game exciting, challenging, and unpredictable. Always be aware of the Special Powers your figures possess—they can make a big difference in your game!

Special Attacks: A figure with a Special Power that contains "Special Attack" in its name can use the described attack instead of making a normal attack during its turn. Special Attacks have Range and Attack Values like normal attacks, and follow normal attack rules except where modified. They are often modified by the Special Powers listed as part of their text, so read carefully to find out what makes the attack so special. Special Attacks can never be modified by Glyphs, other Special Powers, or Height Advantages.

Attack Dice and Defense Dice: Combat dice are used for both attack dice and defense dice. Any time an Army Card refers to attack dice or defense dice, use combat dice.

Minimum Zero: Some Special Powers, Glyphs, or other game rules may subtract dice from an attack or defense roll, remove results, or otherwise lower the roll. No roll can contain less than zero dice, or result in a number that is less than zero.

Clear Sight Spaces: Loviatäk the Kyrie Warrior's Brutality Aura mentions "Clear Sight." To determine Clear Sight, use Loviatäk the Kyrie Warrior's Target Point. If she can see any part of your figure (not just the Hit Zone) and your figure is within four spaces of her, they are affected by her Brutality Aura.

Multiple Targets: When a Special Attack targets more than one figure at the same time, the attacker decides the order in which the defenders will roll combat dice for each figure affected.

When a Figure is Destroyed: Some Special Powers have lingering effects on gameplay. Most Special Powers are no longer important when a figure is destroyed (Knight Irene can't Run if she's not on the battlefield!). But others, like Misaerx the Kyrie Warrior's Life Drain Spirit, happen after she is destroyed. As such, it is important to remember that Special Powers can still affect the game even if the figure is destroyed.

Conflicting Timing: When two or more Special Powers would activate at the same time, the players who control the involved figures each roll the 20-sided die. Whoever rolls the highest result determines the order in which the Special Powers are resolved. If a Special Power can no longer be used because a different Special Power was used first, it is prevented.

Conflicting Special Powers: If a Special Power contradicts the Core Rules, that Special Power's rules override the Core Rules in that instance. If two Special Powers contradict each other, "cannot" overrides "may".

For example: If one figure's Special Power says it cannot be moved, and another figure's Special Power says it may (or simply does) move another figure, the figure that cannot be moved overrides any Special Powers that say otherwise.

Keywords: Some Special Powers are both common and contain a surplus of text. In these cases, just the name of the Special Power is written on Army Cards. The full text of the Special Powers are listed on below.

Flying When counting spaces for this figure's movement, ignore elevations. This figure may Fly over water without stopping, pass over figures without becoming engaged, and Fly over obstacles such as ruins. When this figure starts to Fly, if they are engaged, they will take any leaving engagement attacks.

Stealth Flying When counting spaces for this figure's movement, ignore elevations. This figure may Fly over water without stopping, pass over figures without becoming engaged, and Fly over obstacles such as ruins. When this figure starts to Fly, if they are engaged, they will NOT take any leaving engagement attacks.

Flying and Overhangs

Figures can ascend overhangs while Flying, but cannot pass through the bottom of them. See Example 21.

EXAMPLE 21: Flying and Overhangs Onshu the Welkineye flies out from under the overhang and onto the top, ignoring extra spaces for elevation.

Special Power References on Army Cards

Some Special Powers reference the Species, Personality, Valkyrie, Unique/Common, Hero/Squad, and/or Class of other figures. When they do, they may refer to all figures with that tag simply as that tag.

For example: Kita the Springrunner has the "Beast" Class. When the Command Familiar Special Power refers to a "Beast", Kita the Springrunner counts!

Simultaneous Special Powers

If you and an opponent are using Army Cards with Special Powers that happen at the same time, you must each roll the 20-sided die to see who gets to use them first. Whoever rolls the highest result activates their Special Power first.

"Army Card" on a Power: "Army Card" refers to any number of "Army Cards" that designate the same Common Squad or Hero in an Army.

Using Multiple Master Sets and/or Expansion Sets

Combining two or more Master Sets or collecting Expansion Sets gives you lots of new options. You can create a super-sized battlefield and play with any number of players. You can even boost the point value of your Armies to match the bigger battlefield. But along with that extra excitement comes a few special rules...

Unique Army Cards: If you're combining two sets of Army Cards, make sure that no player has more than one of the same Unique Army Card in their Army. (For example, your Army can't include two Raakchott, Steward of Death.) However, you and an opponent can both have a copy of the same Unique Army Cards.

For example, you and your opponent can each have one Knight Irene in your Armies.

Unique Army Cards with the Same Name: Sometimes Heroes and Squads from the past return, with new special powers and values gained through the passage of time and the thrill of battle. Even though their Army Cards are not exactly the same, you still cannot have two copies of an Army Card with the same Name in your Army.

Marking Your Figures: If you are playing with multiple sets or expansion sets, you may want to use a permanent marker to initial the underside of your figures' bases to remember who owns which figure.